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Replacing steering head bearings
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Replacing steering head bearings
I want to replace the standard ball head races with Z Power conical bearings. The debate is do I do it myself or get a mechanic to do it?
My main concern is do I need pullers to get the races out of the steering head and what looks even more of a trial is pulling the race up from the steering stem.
Anyone done this job themselves and got any tips please?
My main concern is do I need pullers to get the races out of the steering head and what looks even more of a trial is pulling the race up from the steering stem.
Anyone done this job themselves and got any tips please?
Dear Santa, please can I have...
FXD, this is a reasonably easy job (usually) and don't need no special tools.
Secure bike on center-stand (or whatever). You'll need to remove speedo cable, front brake caliper/s & mudguard.
Now take front wheel out (you can leave it be & remove whole front end but not so easy on ur own), and then loosen fork pinch bolts, (2 in top yoke and 2 in bottom yoke).
Remove forks (NOTE: HANDLEBARS ARE FREE TO SPIN SO REMOVE TANK). Undo centre stem bolt (large one in middle) and remove top yoke.
Remove the dust cover and now undo castle-ated nut & the bottom yoke should come out & all those loose bearings
The cups left in the frame will knock out with a drift (eg: long big screwdriver). The awkward b*****d sitting on the stem on bottom yoke can be levered off with careful use of that big screwdriver. Gently tap between cup & yoke all way round & it should move. Keep it moving evenly & should be easy
Fitting new taper bearings is easy, just go careful & get everthing square. DO NOT force bearings as they can be damaged & even fall apart.
When assembled, DO NOT do up TOO toght. Just nip everything & check steering whilst weight off front wheel. Have a short ride, if bikes clunking or knocking, may be loose bearings. If bike wanders about, may be tight
Secure bike on center-stand (or whatever). You'll need to remove speedo cable, front brake caliper/s & mudguard.
Now take front wheel out (you can leave it be & remove whole front end but not so easy on ur own), and then loosen fork pinch bolts, (2 in top yoke and 2 in bottom yoke).
Remove forks (NOTE: HANDLEBARS ARE FREE TO SPIN SO REMOVE TANK). Undo centre stem bolt (large one in middle) and remove top yoke.
Remove the dust cover and now undo castle-ated nut & the bottom yoke should come out & all those loose bearings

The cups left in the frame will knock out with a drift (eg: long big screwdriver). The awkward b*****d sitting on the stem on bottom yoke can be levered off with careful use of that big screwdriver. Gently tap between cup & yoke all way round & it should move. Keep it moving evenly & should be easy

Fitting new taper bearings is easy, just go careful & get everthing square. DO NOT force bearings as they can be damaged & even fall apart.
When assembled, DO NOT do up TOO toght. Just nip everything & check steering whilst weight off front wheel. Have a short ride, if bikes clunking or knocking, may be loose bearings. If bike wanders about, may be tight

And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
many thanks
Thanks Pigford for the very clear and reassuring advice - I'll give it a go
Dear Santa, please can I have...
Hi Folks,
Like Pigford said relativly easy job, when knocking out old bearings keep them as they are useful to put on top of the new ones to protect them as you are tapping them in.
If you find that you already have taper bearings though when you start to take it apart then its a differernt ballgame altogether though as the taper bearing cones are thinner and there is no lip to tap on to get them out.
regards Steve R
Like Pigford said relativly easy job, when knocking out old bearings keep them as they are useful to put on top of the new ones to protect them as you are tapping them in.
If you find that you already have taper bearings though when you start to take it apart then its a differernt ballgame altogether though as the taper bearing cones are thinner and there is no lip to tap on to get them out.
regards Steve R
Hello 1340fxd, before fitting the tapered bearings I always grind away a small notch either side inside the headstock, there is plent of material here as the frame is several milimeters thicker than is necessary, this allows you get purchase with a drift next time the bearings need removing, takes a few minutes with a dremel but saves a lot of time and effort next time around, bearings are available online at www.debben.co.uk. Regards, Steve
- simon gilling
- Regular Poster
- Posts: 96
- Joined: 25th Apr 2002
- Location: Warwickshire
Following on from ED's note, I remember reading that a taper roller in the bottom (most heavy loading) and ball race at the top (mainly side loads) was optimum. Taper rollers can 'knock' as a taper roller top race is really not an optimal laoded solution.
That said, Taper rollers are the way to go for more prcise location of the headstock.
Regards
Simon
That said, Taper rollers are the way to go for more prcise location of the headstock.
Regards
Simon
Don't ask me, I just got here myself!
It's all too much information! I'll just ride the bike until the bearings fall out or it fails an MOT.
Thanks for the tips but I now think I'll replace the good old ball bearings with the same in the knowledge I can remove them without welding or grinding away at the headstock. As for handling, who bought a Zed for that particular quality anyway?
Thanks for the tips but I now think I'll replace the good old ball bearings with the same in the knowledge I can remove them without welding or grinding away at the headstock. As for handling, who bought a Zed for that particular quality anyway?
Dear Santa, please can I have...
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