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Replacing steering head bearings

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1340fxd
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Replacing steering head bearings

#1 PostAuthor: 1340fxd » Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:03 pm

I want to replace the standard ball head races with Z Power conical bearings. The debate is do I do it myself or get a mechanic to do it?

My main concern is do I need pullers to get the races out of the steering head and what looks even more of a trial is pulling the race up from the steering stem.

Anyone done this job themselves and got any tips please?
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Pigford
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#2 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sun Oct 28, 2007 2:39 pm

FXD, this is a reasonably easy job (usually) and don't need no special tools.
Secure bike on center-stand (or whatever). You'll need to remove speedo cable, front brake caliper/s & mudguard.
Now take front wheel out (you can leave it be & remove whole front end but not so easy on ur own), and then loosen fork pinch bolts, (2 in top yoke and 2 in bottom yoke).
Remove forks (NOTE: HANDLEBARS ARE FREE TO SPIN SO REMOVE TANK). Undo centre stem bolt (large one in middle) and remove top yoke.
Remove the dust cover and now undo castle-ated nut & the bottom yoke should come out & all those loose bearings :!:
The cups left in the frame will knock out with a drift (eg: long big screwdriver). The awkward b*****d sitting on the stem on bottom yoke can be levered off with careful use of that big screwdriver. Gently tap between cup & yoke all way round & it should move. Keep it moving evenly & should be easy :)
Fitting new taper bearings is easy, just go careful & get everthing square. DO NOT force bearings as they can be damaged & even fall apart.
When assembled, DO NOT do up TOO toght. Just nip everything & check steering whilst weight off front wheel. Have a short ride, if bikes clunking or knocking, may be loose bearings. If bike wanders about, may be tight :!:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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many thanks

#3 PostAuthor: 1340fxd » Sun Oct 28, 2007 3:17 pm

Thanks Pigford for the very clear and reassuring advice - I'll give it a go
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#4 PostAuthor: Steve R » Sun Oct 28, 2007 7:25 pm

Hi Folks,
Like Pigford said relativly easy job, when knocking out old bearings keep them as they are useful to put on top of the new ones to protect them as you are tapping them in.

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#5 PostAuthor: Steve R » Sun Oct 28, 2007 7:27 pm

Hi Folks,
Like Pigford said relativly easy job, when knocking out old bearings keep them as they are useful to put on top of the new ones to protect them as you are tapping them in.

If you find that you already have taper bearings though when you start to take it apart then its a differernt ballgame altogether though as the taper bearing cones are thinner and there is no lip to tap on to get them out.

regards Steve R

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#6 PostAuthor: 1340fxd » Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:05 pm

Ah - life's never that easy. So if I find I have taper bearings already, how do I get the old ones out please?
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#7 PostAuthor: FER » Mon Oct 29, 2007 8:33 pm

If you have taper bearings in frame run a weld around inside of bearing and it will fall out . Or weld a piece of metal across bearing and tap out . always worked for me .








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#8 PostAuthor: debben1 » Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:18 pm

Hello 1340fxd, before fitting the tapered bearings I always grind away a small notch either side inside the headstock, there is plent of material here as the frame is several milimeters thicker than is necessary, this allows you get purchase with a drift next time the bearings need removing, takes a few minutes with a dremel but saves a lot of time and effort next time around, bearings are available online at www.debben.co.uk. Regards, Steve

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#9 PostAuthor: Steve R » Tue Oct 30, 2007 2:20 pm

As Fer says bit of weld on it and it will either fall out (With shock I think :roll: ) Or the blob of weld will give you enough of a surface to tap it out. probably you will have rollers and it wont be an issue.

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#10 PostAuthor: 1340fxd » Tue Oct 30, 2007 10:45 pm

Thanks for all the tips but just one question - are taper bearings really worth all that welding / grinding trouble? Maybe it is best to stick with new but standard ball races?
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#11 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:17 am

Somewhere i heard a combination of a roller and ball bearing race is the best but cannot remember the configuration :fou
The hassle of prepping headstock is worth it if one is to fit tapers :bla
NB i is still runnin' OlD SkooL :lon

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#12 PostAuthor: Steve R » Wed Oct 31, 2007 1:18 pm

Yes its worth it! Taper Bearings least expensive / most effective way to improve handling

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#13 PostAuthor: simon gilling » Thu Nov 01, 2007 3:31 pm

Following on from ED's note, I remember reading that a taper roller in the bottom (most heavy loading) and ball race at the top (mainly side loads) was optimum. Taper rollers can 'knock' as a taper roller top race is really not an optimal laoded solution.

That said, Taper rollers are the way to go for more prcise location of the headstock.

Regards
Simon
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#14 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:20 pm

Thanx for that info Simon, :up
So its either/or.
OR
a cocktail of the both :?:

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#15 PostAuthor: 1340fxd » Thu Nov 01, 2007 9:07 pm

It's all too much information! I'll just ride the bike until the bearings fall out or it fails an MOT.

Thanks for the tips but I now think I'll replace the good old ball bearings with the same in the knowledge I can remove them without welding or grinding away at the headstock. As for handling, who bought a Zed for that particular quality anyway?
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