Fork Seal Replacement

[JohnC]

I've never replaced the seals on my 77 Z1000 but one of them is now leaking a fair bit.

Anything I need to watch out for, any tips for dismantling the forks, removing the seals etc, best type / weight of fork oil, amount of oil recommended if anything other than standard.

I'm on standard springs at the moment but have progressive springs sitting if anyone can give me any info on whether fitting these makes much of a difference or if they require / benefit from a heavier fork oil or more oil.

I bought two genuine Kawasaki seals from ZPower rather than pattern ones.

Thanks.

John

[ADRIAN H]

Progressive springs are definite improvement.

[Al]

Some 3/8 socket extensions!!!!

I dont know if its such a big issue with the early forks but putting the springs in one way up or the other effects the final oil level in the J forks because more coils lower down make for greater displacement of oil and therefore a higher final oil level. This is WRT springs that are more tightly wound one end more so than the other.

Al

[Garn 1]

A few things to keep in mind...
Use a rattle gun to remove the 8mm socket hex headed bolts, ensure you have good copper or fibre seals on these bolts when assembling. I'm pretty sure on the z1000-A1, the dampers don't have the flats to grip them to undo these bolts... hence, the rattle gun!

Sometime a little heat will help to ease the old seals out and prevent damage to alloy top of leg.

I use 15 wt oil and measure fork oil quantity from specifications.
Note.. Half 10 wt + half 20wt = 15 wt. (if 15 wt not available)

RegardZ

[JohnC]

Thanks guys.

ADRIAN H, do the progressive springs use the standard spacer or do they remove the need for the spacer? I don't have any instructions for the progressive springs.

zorded, I take it the 3/4 " extensions were used to hold the damper rod steady while you undid the allen bolt? If I take the fork leg off is it possible to replace the seal without fully dismantling the leg?

Has anyone tried this,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seal-Mate-Too ... 3a820d28fc

Does anyone think it might be worth a try? I've heard of folk using some clear tape or 35mm film wrapped round the forks just above the seal and then rocking the bike on the suspension to clean the seals, just in case it's debris causing the leak.

I bought the forks from kwakmac on the forum and he said he'd been running them fine previously, so I was thinking of using this before taking the forks apart.

John

[oldzed]

bring them up to my work john.

I have a rattle gun to take them apart.

regards
craig

[ADRIAN H]

ADRIAN H, do the progressive springs use the standard spacer or do they remove the need for the spacer? I don't have any instructions for the progressive springs.

You need to keep the original spacer in place.

[JohnC]

Ta.


Cheers Craig, will give you a bell when I get the forks off. Might poss be Thursday before I get a chance to get up if that's OK.

[steve.w]

why split em if ya only doing seals ..just prize the old one out and pop new one in

[JohnC]

Having asked earlier I was wondering if that was possible. Folk were saying the old seals could be a problem to remove so didn't think it would be possible with the forks in one piece.

How did you drift the new seals in with the forks assembled?

[Garn 1]

why split em if ya only doing seals ..just prize the old one out and pop new one in

.
Never seen that done, they are often very hard to remove. That is why I mentioned some heat may be required on the leg, once they are disassembled.
RegardZ.

[oldzed]

You have to lever the old seals out then use a piece of tube to chap the new seals in.
Easier to phone me when u are ready and we will strip the forks.
It also means you can completely clean out the fork internals of old sludge and oil.

Run the whole bike up and we can do it one evening after I finish work.
Or just bring the legs

regards
Craig

[JohnC]

Thanks Craig m8, think I'd much prefer your approach and do the job right.

Cheers Garn.