Cam Chain Replacement

[Kev1R]

I am going to replace the camchain with the link type (Z1R Engine)
If anyone has done this - is there any particular method to withdrawing the old chain, - presumeably with the new chain attached, to draw it through.
I have a chain splitter/riveter so that part of the job should be ok.
Sorry if this task is outlined elsewhere on site but I couldn’t find it.

Cheers
Kevin

[ted1r]

Hi Kev If it was me I would split the engine and have a look at all the guides and rollers,they are just as important as the chain to be honest.

Ted

[chrisu]

agree

they can be chewed up drop to the sump and clog up the oil pump strainer if undetected.

I would at least drop the sump to check for lumps of black stuff.

[GEZ635]

I agree as well. Do it once, do it right and it will last forever.

[Kev1R]

mmmmm……… not what I wanted to hear I’m afraid….. That’s why I got a chain with a link.
The following thoughts come to mind --
I haven’t really got the resources to drop the engine out – ie no garage
Plus …I have kind of promised myself that if I ever drop the engine out, I will get the frame re-coated, - which I have not currently budgeted for.
Plus all the gaskets and new guides etc…. that’s got to be a couple of hundred
Plus while the engine is out I would really have to get it blasted clean and re painted

So my idea of doing a quick and inexpensive afternoons work is mushrooming into a multi million pound winter project !!

I thought this section was ‘Bike Help’ ‘cos this response is definitely not helpful!!!!!

[Pigford]

Alternative plan.....

Whack the split link chain in (make sure links fitted correct direction ) The run her up & see how quiet/noisy it is

If there's no rattles/clanks or knock.... these are tough old engines... Pays yer money - makes yer choice... Good luck

[Garn 1]

Z1RT311, I don't think you can do thgis task and preserve your valve timing.
In similar circumstances to yourself, I have replaced the chain, by removing the cam shafts, top sprocket and breaking (grinding) the existing chain, so that you have a clear hole for the link, connecting the new chain and threading it around until the new chain is completely around and then discard the old chain and rivet new chain. Re- time engine.

You need room to rivet, an extra hand and a lot of care that you don't drop anything into the sump and you correctly rivet the connecting link. .
RegardZ,

[Garn 1]

Foot-note to above.. Remove chain tensioner!
RegardZ.

[Pigford]

Wot Garn says... but if its a split link... the 're-riveting' bit won't apply

[Garn 1]

Pigford, although they often say "split-link", it just means that it is not an "endless chain". In all cases of cam chain I have seen, you still have to rivet the link and there is no little spring keeper! .... As always I reserve the right to be completely wrong!
RegardZ.

[Kev1R]

Can confirm the new chain is to be riveted in place.

This is a pic of the link type to be used.


I appreciate all the advice and may well do a more in-depth job on it at some stage in the future.
For now I think I will take Mr Pigfords route and settle for installing the new chain & see what happens.

Many thanks for all the comments so far.
& thanks Garn1 - I will take out the tensioner

cheers
Kevin

[Steve Cooke]

On one of my earlier Zeds I replaced the camchain using a soft link and hammered it for 17000mls. without any problem.

[Al]

Its been three years since, but i'm fairly sure when i replaced the HYVO on the J1 i used the outer soft link side plate and two short electrical type set screws and half nuts instead of the soft link itself to pull the new chain through.

Not as strong as the soft link proper for this job,..... but no chance of it falling off as it rounds the bottom bend (crank sprocket)

As Steve says a good quality chain, and dont see a problem with a soft link riveted over provided you don't get it too tight!

Hope this helps.



AL

[Pigford]

Cheers Garn.... can see its a 'soft link' now

Always wondered about fitting a proper 'split link' in a cam chain seemed a bit dodgy

Suppose the main forces will NOT be trying to force the link plate off, but acting perpendicular to it (lenghtways along the chain) - so in reality, little chance of it coming off

[Kev1R]

If I was going the more ‘in-depth’ route, on the cam chain replacement - I may be tempted to use SEP at Kegworth, & get everything done at the same time.
They seem highly regarded in various magazine articles – Has anyone here tried them??