Charging problem in '77 Z1000

[Skunkwurcx]

I did a 500+ km run with the Z yesterday through some very fun roads with awesome scenery....that's the good part. After one of the stops I noticed the starter was a little sluggish. I didn't think much of it and chaulked it up that the engine was quite hot - I had an old car once that would do the same thing. Anyways, as the bike has a kick start I just soldiered on with my ride. After awhile it wouldn't go on the starter so the kicker was used anytime I stopped. I made one last stop for fuel before turning for home and it wouldn't go at all. The gas station attendant called his son to come over with some jumper cables and it fired right up off the starter. I was 205 kms from home so I rode right thru.

I checked the battery when I got home with the engine off and it was showing 9.6 V. I haven't checked the rest of the charging system yet, but I'm guessing that the genny must be working somewhat or the battery would be completely dead. As this bike is a CDN model the headlight is always on as is the tail light, and they were. The signals wouldn't work but the 4 way hazard flashers would.

Can someone suggest where I should start to look for trouble please ?

The battery is just a few months old and is a maint free one....this doesn't mean that it is no good I realise but....

[Skunkwurcx]

30 + views and no one can suggest anything ?

[Pigford]

Hi...... reg/recs are prone to failure if original parts..... but Z1000's usually better kit that the earlier 9's

First step.... check all connections - loose or corroded

You'll have to check alt output.... aiming for a good 14 volts when revving.

Sorry for delay on all our behalf's...

[zeroed]

what ever`s causing your prob, defo change the reg/rec for peace of mind especially if it`s original.
Mine over charged and boiled my battery dry, stuck in the back of beyond!
smelt nice to ..not

bit obvious but check all wiring for breaks especially near terminals and battery connections as it`s all 30 yrs old!

[Skunkwurcx]

Thanks guys......I've been trying to find some more info on testing electrics and found a few things as well.

As far as the reg/rec, I think the previous owner had installed the combined type so I'll do the checks you guys mentioned and go from there.

Ta,
Andrew

[chrisu]

with a charged battery and the engine running a voltmeter across the battery should show around 14v.

Manual say 13.5v to 14.8v at 4000rpm

less than 12 not charging

over 15 - cooked battery time.

[chrisu]

or could be a battery cell gone.

charge it up an see it it'll hold 12v or not.

[Skunkwurcx]

Just got off the phone with the Kawi dealer here....I hope it's neither the regulator($348.00) or the genny($800.00) It may be sitting for awhile if it's either of those two The reg isn't available aftermarket.

I'm at work(can't you tell ) right now sos not able to check the thing yet. Battery has been on charge since Sunday night and was showing fully charged when I left this morning. Dealer seems to think it's the battery from what I described, which, aside from a bad connection somewhere, is what I'm hoping it is as the battery is under full year warranty.

[northman]

A few years ago my A1 developed the same symptoms. Turned out to be a shagged rectifier. New one sorted it. The original was a solid state affair, and the plastic component had deteriorated over time. I replaced it with one of the older style silicon ones which, if I remember rightly, needed an extra earth to the battery negative terminal. No worries since.

Best of luck!

[Skunkwurcx]

Got home tonight and did the test at the battery. Battery had been at fully charge according to battery tender so fired it off the starter and checked it. With engine revs at 2500 and also at 4000 rpm, reading showed 12.55 at first and then climbed to 12.61 V and stayed there. So it isn't at 14 + like it should be, but it's not sucking the battery down either. If the genny was completely buggered, I would not have gotten home from that ride as about 300km were put on it after the starter failed to roll the engine over

I've been told that if the regulator is gone it would overcharge the battery - if that's true can I then rule out the reg ?????

All connectors that I checked seem to be good with no crust or corrosion. I didn't go further than that tonight as we are supposed to have rain for the next several days so I hopped on the cruiser and went for a ride. I'll dig in more when the rains come.

I do have the manual for the bike, but to be honest, the electrics section may as well be Chinese, though I will learn it.

Any furher suggestions would be appreciated though

[Al]

I do have the manual for the bike, but to be honest, the electrics section may as well be Chinese, though I will learn it.

I cant and wont do electrics but have the same thing.
You need to test between the output wires of the different phases of the generator. In manual you should get 50 volts of the AC variety between any two of the three wires when running and in circuit.
On mine; 9 -11 volts of the AC type on any pair of leads.

Conclusion; alternator suspect.
Reality; at least one of the three composite parts of the stator windings was burnt black and the other two possibly shorted to earth when casing removed.

It starts, runs, brightens the lights at half throttle etc etc etc but progressively runs the battery voltage lower and lower and lower till it wont go and or missfires the coils etc.

Cant say for definite that it's that,. but it's probably the easiest and most revealing test you can probably do without an oscilloscope.

(This is the three phase alternator on a J1)


Hope this is of some use.

P.S. Wrap a cold towel round your head!!!



AL

[PAULJAC47]

Hi This sound like your regulator and or rectifier!!! if the generator is giving out 50 volts across three phases i would go for the cheap fix and use a good second hand combined reg/rec off a H**** superdream Cheers Paul J...