GB's Snotter! Oh Why, Oh Why? It's all over now..... Sort of

[Al]

GB my unitrak head has/had those cam wheels in it. 'Z1100B'
The cams themselves are marked with a large stamping of either; R3, R5, R7 etc
The only difference between yours and mine that i can see is that someone had previously elongated the mounting bolt holes to adjust the valve timing with!!
Also there is also a Raised 'B' in a circle on the cam shaft proper.
If you need measurements of either journals or cam lobes drop me a pm.


AL

[Al]

Standard bore is 72.5 i believe so yours is actually smaller than standard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Where are you measuring it and with what? Meaning where exactly in the bore and using what type of instrument.



AL

[Ginger Bear]

Piggy,
That is true, but I was reading on Z-Powers site today about the unitrac's having even lumpier cams than the B2's So don't want to be missing out!

Zorded,
My cams do have R5 cast into them
I measured bores at the top using some 'quality' digital calipers from Machine Mart! Perhaps that coked up ring at the top has caused a cack reading!!

Phil,
Classic bike contacted me to ask if they could use pictures of my bike a while back. I asked 'em which one, the 'Muncher' or the 'Snotter' & was most surprised to find they wanted pictures of the snotter!! Will have to source a copy asap!

[steve.w]

hi u can grind shims they have to be done on a surface grinder i had same problem with a gpz750 got some shims made i have a 1.80 one if its any good to u steve

[big green bus]

you can take .3 off the top of the valves if you need to bring the shim sizes back to middle of the range. (it is in the kawasaki manual)

[Ginger Bear]

BGB,

My Clymer manual says you cannot do this with the shim under bucket valves , but if it has been done with success then I'm willing to give it a go.

Steve.w,

I may well take you up on your offer, thankyou. I am planning to fit another head, which is in better condition, than the original. But it would be usefull to use that skinny shim to see what clearance I have.

[Pigford]

GB..... you're not really supposed to trim valves with under bucket shims...

AND....... Grinding shims is not recommended This removes the hardened surface... and not good to have shims under 2.00mm coz their is more chance of them cracking/breaking - and being spat out if over-bucket

Saying that, I do have a cosher 1.80mm if you wanna borrow it to do some clearnace checks

[big green bus]

the KAWASAKI manual says you can
[img][img]http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s82/worringtonminge/stuff030.jpg[/img]
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if you cannot read this it says (in the kawasaki manual) do not take off more than .3 off. i have aready done this on another motor with no problems, but the choice is yours

[Pigford]

BGB... is that for UNDER BUCKET shims

[Ginger Bear]

Thanks for that BGB, I don't want to sound 'dis-respectful', but does the manual you have cover the later GPz1100A models which have the under bucket shim's
If it does, then I'm a happy bunny......... er, I mean Bear

[big green bus]

for both mate, i was told by an engine tuner some years ago. i still own the bike and have had no prob's with the valves (but i may have been just lucky) it is your choice but don't do it if you are not sure. going under a 200 shim is not recommended as they can shatter if on top and let the collets move if under.

[Ginger Bear]

Thanks BGB,
I suppose as long as the collets aren't higher than whats left of the stem, then it should be fine I suppose.

[big green bus]

once you are on to the lowest shims their is not very many choices, god knows how much new seats cost (over to you steve debben)

[zed1015]

Thanks BGB,
I suppose as long as the collets aren't higher than whats left of the stem, then it should be fine I suppose.

If you have to grind the valve stem more than the recommended maximum its possible to pinch a bit off the tops of the collets to get the collet to shim/bucket clearance back using a spare valve and retainer as a jig and access to a lathe. The collets do cut easily using a carbide tip. I had to do this on my race head due to the non standard valves that are fitted, but that's another story . Also if you go down to your local engine reconditioners you should be able to get valve seats for around a tenner each. just take an old one for them to match up. It's not that hard to replace them (can tell you how if you really want )but you will need proper seat cutting gear (neway etc) to finish off so it might be cheaper to take it to a shop if you aren't already rigged up for this sort of job. P.s. DON'T GRIND SHIMS.

[Ginger Bear]

Time for an update.
I have decided to use another head, which is in much better condition than the original....... No stripped threads (except exhaust stud sheared) The crankcases of the doner head also look to be in excellent condition externally. So the plan is to use these too, with the re-honed barrels from the original engine........... So I have decided, since the engine is coming out, I may as well strip the rest of the frame & get it powdercoated. No point doing a job twice.