Starter clutch damper query-another prob

[martinz1000r]

Rob, i had exactly the same problem when I rebuilt the engine on my Lawson. I bought a rotor off eBay that was claimed to be for a GPz1100 and it did look identical to the one that came off. When I tightened this new down the starter clutch locked solid and I went through all the things you have tried.

In the end I bought another new rotor from Electrex World and fitted this. Clutch now spins as it should. Turns out the taper on the rotor was slightly different from crank allowing it to tighten down further than it should. Re-sold the other rotor on eBay being careful to warn off GPz owners.

Martin

[Robw]

Martin, thanks for the info, I thought I was going mad, I will try and get another rotor for it.

Cheers Rob

[Robw]

Just used the search engine and lo and behold Martin had exactly the same part number rotor GP9325, which caused him all the problems.
This site is GREAT.

Rob

[Pigford]

Good on yer Rob...... so cool when you get over an obstacle

[martinz1000r]

Was it me you bought it off????

[Robw]

Martin, no it wasn't, so you can relax

Rob

[AndyZ1R]

Looks like i need to do mine again as the starter is still slipping and making horrible clanging noises when trying to start it. I think the 3 x bolts may be loose again.
Pigford what torque do you do your bolt up to? Because on mine it`s 95 ft 1b, and i can`t imagine a cable tie would hold it when it`s nearly breaking a decent size piece of wood in the rear wheel! But i`ll give it a go anyway.
What is the Kawasaki method of doing it? Is there a special tool? Also why does it need to be in 5th if i`m going the piece of wood/locking the rear wheel route? Is that the strongest gear?
Also anyone else experienced the slipping and really nasty metallic clanging sound? I need to get it sorted this week to try and race next Saturday, so any help is much appreciated!

[Pigford]

Andy A nylon strap - like the sort you use to "tie-down" your Z1R on the trailer Wrap it round the rotor & as it turns a bit with the tightening of the bolt (or lossening if removing) it bites hard with minimal damage to the soft rotor

[Garn 1]

Rotor Gripping ~ I use a good quality auto oil-filter remover, they usually fit nicely around the rotor and, in a minor way, the magnetic rotor assist in the gripping, along with a substantial handle.
RegardZ.

[Rich]

Which engine?

Mk2s are torqued to a considerably higher figure than earlier Z1000s. There is a special tool for holding both types of rotor. I would go with Piggys way for the earlier rotor but the Mk2 really needs the special tool unless you want to sprag the starter gear to lock it off, but it if it cracks don't come moaning to me

If you are taking it off put new springs and roller bearings in it, check the gear surface the roller bearings grip against it may need dressing with fine emery cloth.

[Al]

AndyZ1R
PostPosted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 9:52 pm Post subject:
Looks like i need to do mine again as the starter is still slipping and making horrible clanging noises when trying to start it. I think the 3 x bolts may be loose again. Evil or Very Mad
Pigford what torque do you do your bolt up to? Because on mine it`s 95 ft 1b, and i can`t imagine a cable tie would hold it when it`s nearly breaking a decent size piece of wood in the rear wheel! But i`ll give it a go anyway.
What is the Kawasaki method of doing it? Is there a special tool? Also why does it need to be in 5th if i`m going the piece of wood/locking the rear wheel route? Is that the strongest gear?
Also anyone else experienced the slipping and really nasty metallic clanging sound? I need to get it sorted this week to try and race next Saturday, so any help is much appreciated!



It looks like this fatty Z1R and no i dont have one
It locks into the pre-drilled holes on the rotors' outer diameter to allow you to hold it.
If you use a strap or other device to hold the rotor you stand a better than 50/50 chance of dislodging the magnets with potentially fatal consequences.


AL

[AndyZ1R]

Andy A nylon strap - like the sort you use to "tie-down" your Z1R on the trailer Wrap it round the rotor & as it turns a bit with the tightening of the bolt (or lossening if removing) it bites hard with minimal damage to the soft rotor

Doh! Cheers Pigford, i thought a cable tie seemed unlikely! That`s a good idea though, so i may try that one. And thanks for everyone elses replies, Al i did look for the holes on the rotor and mine doesn`t seem to have them, is the locking the rear wheel with wood really that dodgy? And does it need to be in 5th? I think it`s that combined with the tie down strap as the best options so far. I`ll use an air gun (Webley Tempest .177 ) to undo it, but it`s the re-torquing it that`s the problem.

[debben1]

Hello Andy
This part here (clutch holding tool) works well, the end fangs fit into the slots on the end of the rotor, I will try to post some pics
http://www.debben.co.uk/acatalog/Click_here_to_view_race_spares_and_tools.html[url] If you are at a meeting where I am racing come and see me as I always carry this tool in my toolbox, you are welcomed to borrow it at the track.
A common problem with the starter clutch slipping is that the starter gear wheel itself wears, i have got through a couple now, take the gear wheel and carefully inspect the hardened surface where the rollers bite on to, unless they are perfectly round and smooth then one of the individaul rollers can spin rather than wedge onto the shoulder. Regards, Steve[/url]

[AndyZ1R]

Cheers for that Steve, wouldn`t that need some way of locking it in place though? Does it just rely on having Geoff Capes hold on to it while someone else undoes/tightens the bolt? Any idea on the loud clanging sound on start up? Thanks again.

[debben1]

Hello Andy, no it makes tightening/ undoing the rotor bolt very easy, the holding tools clicks on to the rotor and you use one hand to hodr the handle and the other hand for the torque wrench, i will try to post some pics n the week, Regards, Steve