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Tank badge position
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Tank badge position
Just got my paint set back and need to fit the tank badges on, as this was a 2nd hand tank that replaced the one that was crushed in the rear end shunt last october the tank badge holes have long since been filled in and i didnt see the tank before it was painted, (daveltd and fer sourced it for me thanks guys) so i have some double sided stick like shit to a blanket vehicle badge tape, so does anybody know the exact position of the badges, ie the measurement from the bottom edge of the tank to the bottom edge of the badge, and from the nose of the tank to the front of the badge, also dont know if it makes a diffrence its a Z1000 tank with a Z900 paint scheme the one with the thick black line across top of the tank and the thick gold line along the bottom of the tank, sorry to go on a bit but this tape if you dont get it right 1st time you cant get it off with out damaging the paint, thanks guys.
Making the world a shiny place with a factory finish
Mikey, take your time, that's an important job!
I don't think you can get the dimensions from the forum that would ensure the accuracy you need. A badge that's not quite right spoils the whole job.
My advice is to borrow a tank of the same model series. Note that the '73 Z1 has a smaller badge. The Z1A & Z1B are the same and the Z900 and Z1000 A1 & A2 are the same. Yours sounds like a Z1B.
Measure off distance from the sample, ensure you measure from a good datum base (line work can alter significantly) Also, measure from the front of the badge to the curved front tank section. Mark your paint work with a strip of masking tape horizontally and badge front.
Offer your un-taped badge to the tank and mark where the front screw will go. You may find it's position, or you may find it is full of bog from and the original screw hole gone! Do the same for the rear screw. If you cannot locate the screw holes you can utilise a dummy screw (a counter-sunk screw gluded/ stuck in position, in the filler). Once the screw positions are located, you need to apply the double sided tape to the badge and line up with the screw marks.
RegardZ.
Ps. Help ban emoticons.
I don't think you can get the dimensions from the forum that would ensure the accuracy you need. A badge that's not quite right spoils the whole job.
My advice is to borrow a tank of the same model series. Note that the '73 Z1 has a smaller badge. The Z1A & Z1B are the same and the Z900 and Z1000 A1 & A2 are the same. Yours sounds like a Z1B.
Measure off distance from the sample, ensure you measure from a good datum base (line work can alter significantly) Also, measure from the front of the badge to the curved front tank section. Mark your paint work with a strip of masking tape horizontally and badge front.
Offer your un-taped badge to the tank and mark where the front screw will go. You may find it's position, or you may find it is full of bog from and the original screw hole gone! Do the same for the rear screw. If you cannot locate the screw holes you can utilise a dummy screw (a counter-sunk screw gluded/ stuck in position, in the filler). Once the screw positions are located, you need to apply the double sided tape to the badge and line up with the screw marks.
RegardZ.
Ps. Help ban emoticons.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4
- mick znone
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Mikey, in about 3 weeks, im traveling through Bristol, as mentioned i am dropping some bits off to polish, i could drop my z1a tank in the standard green trim and leave it with you for 2 weeks, maybe you could work out some way of making a pattern from that. its up to you.
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