ELR Alternator cover grommet leak

phil churchett · #16 PostAuthor: **phil churchett** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 11:44 am

GB, i am sure there was a thread on this last year. Have a look in the "search" forum.

#17 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 12:29 pm

Phil, I found this thread by searching 'Altenator Grommet'.
It came back with 13 results, this thread was the most recent.
I have read other threads & found piggy's heat shrink tip most handy.
I do use the search facility. There's nothing worse than people asking questions, that have already been answered in some detail.

phil churchett · #18 PostAuthor: **phil churchett** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 4:41 pm

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... highlight=
GB, there is this thread as well, which you may not have seen?
Perhaps Chris, [who runs the site], could set up a section, "Frequently Asked Questions" which i am sure would be an advantage.

#19 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 6:41 pm

Thanks for that Phil, I agree a frequently asked questions could be useful.

zseries Rob · #20 PostAuthor: **zseries Rob** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:24 pm

The best information I have ever seen/ used it this one I copied and saved some time ago.

From: esptj5

I have installed several of the replacement alternator grommets. All initially leaked. Here is the cure. Buy some thicker wire (14G) and solder it in place of the skinny stuff that Kawasaki uses. This makes a much tighter fit. Using Threebond 1211 sealer (use this, not something else), smear some on the area where the grommet goes. Install the alternator and using a flat piece of metal, clamp it over the gasket surface where the grommet goes, forcing the grommet into place like you had bolted the cover to the case. Fill the remaining void in the cover with the 1211 sealer and let it set up at least 24 hours or until the sealer is well cured. Install with a new gasket. It wonâ€™t leak. I've been dealing with this problem for over 30 years now and have refined this procedure such that we no longer have problems.
TJ Jackson EastSide Performance Motorcycles Mesa

Give it a go, IT WORKS!!
Rob.[/b]

#21 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:45 pm

Thanks Rob, did the job today with some silicone RTV sealant. I degreased, scraped & beadblasted the casing where the grommet fit's. I degreased & dried the original cable (brake cleaner.... fantastic) I then shrunk some 'heat shrink' onto the part of the cable that fit's through the grommet to make it a tight fit. I 'lubed' the whole lot up with a bit of fairy, but then disaster, the braided outer tore. So I stripped of all the outer, re-cleaned me new grommet, applied sealent to the cables, before pulling them through the grommet. After that I applied some silicone to the rear of the grommet, working it well in. Problem I have is the cable insulation is very brittle (cable seems fine though). If this doesn't work, I'll probably bite the bullit & purchase new strator + cable & plug from Z1 enterprises. But I will source some of the sealant you suggest...... Thanks.

#22 PostAuthor: **Taffus** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 11:19 pm

The stator cables can get hot when there is too much current drawn from the alternator eg when the rectifier dies or the regulator. In the worst case they burn out.
The insulation (cable outer) can also degrade over time with high current draw eg putting a bigger wattage head light on if the system wattage is not sufficient.
Alternators can also burn out when its own insulation breaks down......

#23 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 8:36 am

Oh Taffus,
You've got me thinking now!
Headlamp bulb is 55/60w, which will have a bigger current draw than what the original altenator was designed for. The strator from Z1 enterprises is designed to give around 10-15% more power, for that very reason.
I will end up buying one, I know I will :nono

I am gonna scan through cmm first n' see if I can get the original rewound/rewired.
I will search this forum to, for any handy hints.

#24 PostAuthor: **Taffus** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:16 am

Here you go GB, this is my alternator from my GPz1100: this bike has twin Cibie 55/65W headlights and Dyna coils.
The alternator output is 280W at 8500 rpm and LESS under that rpm.
I now run with only 1 headlight on dipped but both on full beam.
Mathematically the system should be able to handle the lights and the coils but while I chase through the system looking for more faults (ie previous owner butchery) I will run it like this

#25 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:33 am

I have found Electrex do a new stator, with grommet & plug. Works out at Â£72.00 with the Vat & postage. I will check exactly what you get tomorrow (monday).
Sad thing is, now I'm thinking of replacing the stator/wiring, you can guarantee my replaced grommet will be the most oil tight in Zed history. :roll:

#26 PostAuthor: **Taffus** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 10:55 am

Got the replacement from electrex....no problems so far :??

#27 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:29 am

Just ordered a tube of Threebond 1211!!

Magnum1 · #28 PostAuthor: **Magnum1** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 5:48 pm

Haven't started yet, I better get some too!
Cheers,
Rod

#29 PostAuthor: **Ginger Bear** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:16 pm

http://www.airtimeproducts.co.uk/index. ... roductId=6

Cheapest I could find in the UK. Â£18 inc VAT & postage

ELR Alternator cover grommet leak

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