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Original 73 Coils - Can I replace the HT leads?

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MaineKZ
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Original 73 Coils - Can I replace the HT leads?

#1 PostAuthor: MaineKZ » Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:36 pm

One of my HT leads is looking dodgy so needs replacing, but are the leads removable from the coil body? Manual says the coils are not serviceable - but does that go for the leads?....

Had a little poke around but they don't seem keen to disconnect, and don't want to sever anything. :roll:

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MaineKZ
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#2 PostAuthor: MaineKZ » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:42 pm

A simple yes or no is all I'm looking for here.

Chop chop...... :D

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#3 PostAuthor: PJ » Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:56 pm

MaineKZ wrote:A simple yes or no is all I'm looking for here.

Chop chop...... :D


NO,

The lead is sealed into the body, however you should be able to buy a connector from a motor accessory shop, that will allow you to cut off the old lead a couple of inches away from the coil body and attach a
new lead. This should work, However I have never tried this myself

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#4 PostAuthor: phil churchett » Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:44 pm

Paul,
after that advice, you do realise that his next post will be on the "Wanted" section; "Does anyone have a spare pair of coils"? :D
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#5 PostAuthor: zince » Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:51 pm

No Too!

I just replaced my 72's with dyna's, suggest you do the same a it runs and starts much better . You can't tell it's not original as they are hidden anyway and after 35 years they have done their time !

keep the originals in a box for the purists though !

good luck

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#6 PostAuthor: Kev1R » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:06 pm

Out of Interest - did you just replace the coils only, or did you go the whole hog (if I can use that word on a Kawasaki site) and have the electronic bits that replace the points as well?

I was considering an upgrade and wondered if simply replacing the 30 year old coils on their own, would be worthwhile.


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#7 PostAuthor: zince » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:17 pm

did the whole "hog" as it were, including the plugs with iridium denso's !

Smoother running and fires up on the button , started the other day without hesitation after 2 months standing !

I bought kits in from the Z1 enterprises as it was cheaper and i needed several sets , although then we were 2.00USd =1 GBP so the situation may well be different now given 1.47US =1gbp, so probs better using Z-power or place a wanted ad on the site.

good luck

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#8 PostAuthor: MaineKZ » Tue Feb 10, 2009 4:39 pm

zince wrote:
I just replaced my 72's with dyna's, suggest you do the same as it runs and starts much better .
Vince


Thanks Vince.

I see that you can use those Dynas with points so I think I'll give that a go. I kinda like clunky old points - I understand how they work. And setting them up takes me back too....

Do you know if you can use the original plug caps on the 7mm copper core leads that Dyna supply? - would be nice to keep my caps as they're the genuine ones

cheeers

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#9 PostAuthor: zince » Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:07 pm

Wise choice with Dyna's , think you have to just check the resistance levels on the coils, best make sure you are getting the right ones as there are a few types !

As for your caps I think the metal ones fit but again worth clarifying ...I am sure Dave at Z power will know and you can look forward to lots of great sparks .

I would change the points too as you can fit and forget with electronic ignition ...we all have to move with the times mate!

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#10 PostAuthor: tlc » Tue Feb 10, 2009 6:17 pm

zince wrote:I would change the points too as you can fit and forget with electronic ignition ...we all have to move with the times mate!

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#11 PostAuthor: eastlondon » Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:46 pm

You need the green 3 ohm Dyna coils if you are retaining the original points.

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#12 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Wed Feb 11, 2009 6:45 pm

Hi you can reclaim coils if careful,cut into body of coil where ht lead goes in with small hacksaw and sharp knife.solder on new h/t wire to stub of winding and seal with araldite or similar resin type compound.i did this on my old z1000st and it ran well for many miles.Cheers Pauljac...
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#13 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:28 pm

As Pauljac says, you can hack-saw and solder, however, what he didn't say is how hard a job this is!.
Many years ago, I cut an old coil open to find the position of the HT end that comes from the coil, the terminal or should I say the small solder lug is about 2 cm down and protrudes about 2 mm from the coil body side. I agree it can be done, but it would be hard to make a neat job of it. And for what? A thrirty year old coil.

Re Dyna coils, these are not the answer, unless you are after performance that may not be in keeping with the rest of the machine.
Things I and others have found difficult with installation of Dyna coils.
    Distance pieces have to be increased in length.
    Don't over tighten the low tension screws , they evidently strip.
    Coils have to mounted with spouts "up" and facing forward.
    Consequent to above, the lead occupy the space where the horn and wiring is dense.
    To overcome above, you can purchase/ buy some right-angle coil connectors.
The Green Dyna coils may be designed to enhance performance, however, they are not designed to fit the Z1 series etc.

For an easy solution and provided you are not, absolutly, chasing performance, I would go for the Japanese aftermarket "Z1 Coils & leads" available from many outlets.[/list]
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4

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MaineKZ
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#14 PostAuthor: MaineKZ » Fri Feb 13, 2009 12:54 pm

Crikey!!! That's not a very encouraging review G!!

Particularly not to a chap who's just ordered a set of the green 3 ohm items..... :roll:

Anyone else had these problems? - no one else who's replied so far has mentioned these snags........


Garn 1 wrote:As Pauljac says, you can hack-saw and solder, however, what he didn't say is how hard a job this is!.
Many years ago, I cut an old coil open to find the position of the HT end that comes from the coil, the terminal or should I say the small solder lug is about 2 cm down and protrudes about 2 mm from the coil body side. I agree it can be done, but it would be hard to make a neat job of it. And for what? A thrirty year old coil.

Re Dyna coils, these are not the answer, unless you are after performance that may not be in keeping with the rest of the machine.
Things I and others have found difficult with installation of Dyna coils.
    Distance pieces have to be increased in length.
    Don't over tighten the low tension screws , they evidently strip.
    Coils have to mounted with spouts "up" and facing forward.
    Consequent to above, the lead occupy the space where the horn and wiring is dense.
    To overcome above, you can purchase/ buy some right-angle coil connectors.
The Green Dyna coils may be designed to enhance performance, however, they are not designed to fit the Z1 series etc.

For an easy solution and provided you are not, absolutly, chasing performance, I would go for the Japanese aftermarket "Z1 Coils & leads" available from many outlets.[/list]

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#15 PostAuthor: wilsonsjw11 » Fri Feb 13, 2009 1:54 pm

Chris good afternoon.
I just fitted a set to my Z1B and the only snag I encountered was that I had to use slightly longer fixing screws(5mm longer)and also fitted heat shrink to these screws as they are very close to the LT terminals,the HT cables will cause some congestion but its all under the tank.
As Garn1 says be careful when tightening the LT terminals as the screws are quite small and the threads soft.

Regards
Steve


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