oil

[mick znone]

ok oil question, yes oil question, having owned my last z900 19 years ago, in an alcohol,acid, haze my bike was lucky if it got so much as butter pushed through the oil cap. now i have made peace with my past, i am older and, well older anyway. i now have a z1a and need to make up for previous abuse, my brain is telling me 10/40 mineral oil would good, but my brain also said alcohol and acid cocktails would be good now i know this might seem like an obvious answer to some, but people sometimes ask me sex questions and i think [you don't now that?], i dont think my engine is very worn, i believe it was rebuilt a few hundred miles ago.

[mick znone]

sorry didn't say, my worry is with the synthetic-mineral question. i hear mixing the two or swapping can blow seals and i dont wish to be doing that again.

[Kev1R]

If the question is - What can you use? - you would probably be ok using any 10/40 15/40 or even 20/50
The numbers denote the thickness (viscosity) of the oil
10/40 being the thinnest - 20/50 is the thickest and I suppose if you lived in LA might be a good choice - as Oil gets thinner as it gets hotter.
If the question is what should you use - 10/40 mineral is ok, or I personally use Halfords semi synthetic which is not too expensive.
The only thing I would recommend is that you don't use car engine oils.
Motorcycle Oils are designed to run with the Oil in contact with the gear box and clutch area and have an additive to prevent clutch slip. Car Oils are not designed to do this.
Oil change is critical to keeping the engine in good condition - change regularly !

[mick znone]

now that is good, thanks z1rt311, it never clicked about the separate gearbox on a car, that makes a lot of sense, where has my head been.

[Kev1R]

With regard to your second point:
Don't chop & change your oil types if you can avoid it, as there is always a residual amount of the old oil left in the engine and not all oils mix well - especially if for example you changed from Mineral to Synthetic - and can 'layer out' - this will reduce the effectiveness.
When changing - In order to minimise the residual amount of the old oil left after draining - try to change the oil when the engine is hot - (Can be difficult I know!) That way you will get the max amount of the old spent oil to drain away quicker.
Also do not overfill !!!!
I think this has been pointed out in another recent post - As with most things in life - Too much can be just as bad as not enough!
Overfilling could cause problems with seals you mention

hope this helps
Kevin

[mick znone]

thats right mate, to much has always been my trouble, now none at all thanks

[tlc]

PM VDUK for definitive answer.

He`s now a dealer for a certain manufacturer.

Also recommend you "Search Forum" as many of these questions have been discussed previously.

[Pigford]

Debbens recommend AMSOIL........ USA mineral stuff.....

Say no more....

Loads of threads relating to this subject..... Get SEARCHING

Pays yer money, makes yer choice

[Geoff Meager]

Still say you can't beat the old GTX 10W - 40
Been using it years in old Bikes & Cars with no probs

Just make sure you DO REGULAR OIL CHANGES

[ROZZER]

I'm with Geoff on this one, unmodded Zeds with regular oil changes (max 2000 miles, I do mine every 1000 miles) then GTX 10/40 is fine £18 for 4 litres. Synthetics can cause issues with clutches and the old Zeds were designed before Synthetics were made. Nowt wrong with Amsoil though as Pigford uses, just a case of how much do you want to pay.
Do a search, just don't expect a definitive answer mate!

[Geoff Meager]

Same as you John .... oil change every 1000 mls & filter change every other oil change

Oil is the life blood of any engine ...... so keep it fresh & clean

[mick znone]

thanks guys, sorry if it seemed like an obvious question. synthetic oils were not in the equation when i last had a bike. ive looked back through past topics, [its fantastic, the information in there]

[paul doran]

I tried Semi synthetic in the Lawson and found it made the clutch drag
so I have gone back to mineral oil

[Steve Cooke]

Avoid synthetic and semi synthetic, stick with mineral, there's nothing wrong with GTX a good oil at a fair price, there's no need for anything else unless you're running an engine in a higher state of tune. Obviously some of the more expensive oils are better in some ways but it is just not needed in a standard Zed engine. Some will tell you the in and outs of the cats arse about a particular oil but most of it is bollocks when related to a standard Zed engine, regular oil changes as has been said is the order of the day.

[Pigford]

Just get a plain mineral named brand & change regularly....

Short trips change every 1000 miles...........