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Pigfords OLD effort......now JULES NEW PROJECT!!!!!

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RALPHARAMA
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#121 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Thu Dec 18, 2008 11:41 pm

kwakerman wrote:you could allways fill them from the bottom using a syringe which should in theory expel any air bubbles into the master cylinder as the fluid rises.
might try that on mine as they have just been freshly painted, just waiting for stainless pistons to arrive.

Jez


A mate tried the system whereby you force fluid up from the bottom and assured me that the vacuum system is much safer. When fluid gets free at the calliper end at least its to low to attack the paint work at the top like tanks, fairings etc.

I've tried a number of systems and I have to say that sucking it from the bleed nipples seems the safest to date :)
Ralph Ferrand
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#122 PostAuthor: spiny » Fri Dec 19, 2008 2:10 am

vduk wrote:I've tried a number of systems and I have to say that sucking it from the bleed nipples seems the safest to date :)


And most pleasurable, eh Ralphy? Eh? Eh?

:smak2
Pass the angle grinder and the puke green paint..

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#123 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Fri Dec 19, 2008 8:54 am

It's a bit like expressing milk ... very organic :wink:
Ralph Ferrand

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#124 PostAuthor: Pigford » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:11 pm

Here you go Ralphy...

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Before mounting them... :wink: All nice & shiney with new seals & pistons.
Tip for fitting the seals...
#1 Fit piston seal first - ensure grove that it sits in is very clean :!:
#2 Now lube piston (brake fluid or brake grease) slide dust seal over piston & slide down to end that goes in caliper first. Gently pull the bit of the seal that sits in the caliper and feed into groove. This is real fiddly coz there ain't much room coz of the piston. You probably won't be able to fit this dust seal, then the piston, coz the rubber is a tight fit on the piston bit :??

Now for the engine cases & barrels that I had grit blasted (£20 :P )...

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Couple of coats of PJ1 satin black :twisted:

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BEFORE ANYONE SAY IT.... the clutch casing is a scrap one :roll:

Spent a few hours at work ( :oops: ) cleaning them out.... even though I did my best to seal the cases & barrels, some dust/grit still got in :??

Hosed them out with a strong water spray..... Then used Gunk degreaser & a paint brush..... Then hosed off again & blew out all oil ways etc with air line :shock:

Got all the bits back home ready for the Xmas Assembly Session :lol:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#125 PostAuthor: Rich » Fri Dec 19, 2008 7:18 pm

I thought you were going to say "spent a couple of hours cleaning paint off carpet before MRS P came home" or did you just blame the dog :roll:

Seems a shame to have all that pretty paint on the caliper just to strip it off in a bit :D
Rich
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#126 PostAuthor: Dodgy Z1B » Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:26 pm

Not to be the party pooper or the messenger of doom, but many years ago i had a gs750 engine vapour blasted on the cheap and spent hours cleaning the cases out in a prts washer and blowing through with an air hose and there was still enough grit hiding some where to total the engine, fingers crossed pigman.
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#127 PostAuthor: paul doran » Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:38 pm

fire engine red eh! Piglet :lol: :lol: :lol:
way too many Zeds

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#128 PostAuthor: Al » Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:48 pm

Mark, are the forks on the callipers parallel to the face of the pistons?

Mine are 3 or 4 degrees out from stretching, causes no end of problems with pads and such.



AL

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#129 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Sat Dec 20, 2008 12:44 am

Piss taking aside that is soooo wrong Mark, which is why there are so many calipers/pistons that get corroded before their time and so many seals rot prematurely.

Once you have properly rid yourself of any corrosion, and with most under maintained calipers, that's a fair bit, you must generously coat all the rubber bits (seals and dust covers) with red rubber grease. All the metal to metal bearing surfaces eg pins, back and sides of the metal parts of the pads, should be coated with copaslip.

If you are sure that the seals are OK when you strip them, leave the seals soaking in brake fluid until you are ready to re-assemble, then clean them with IPA and then coat with red rubber grease. You should never use ordinary grease on any hydraulic parts of a brake system.

Regular brake hydraulic fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water. You should put a 'barrier' of red rubber grease around the brake piston seal to keep the water which is initially, 'held' in the fluid, out of the groove that holds the seal. Any one who has stripped a caliper knows that most corrosion starts in that groove, which then flakes and pushes the already hardening seal harder against the piston - net result the brakes don't work anything like as well as they should and ultimately if you need 90% braking and you only have 60% then YOU DIE :evil:

I know this sound melodramatic ... but I've always been a biker and I have lost 5 friends to motorcycle accidents and quite a few to the lifestyle ... how about you?

By the way once the dust seal is coated in rubber grease it'll piss on, with only gentle massage from a bikers fingers :shock: Who needs KY ... thinking about it I wonder if it's the same stuff ... best recommend it to some gay mates and see what they make of it :lol:

I've always found the best way to clean all the corrosion out of the seal groove is with a narrow wire wheel on the Dremmel, but keep it well clear of the cylinder and piston bore faces.

Mark, is it me or is your missus finally letting you assemble bike engines on the sitting room carpet ... if so you're finally ahead of me!!! CB still make a fuss of me cooling welded bitz in the kitchen sink :twisted: :D :lol: :lol: Best I send her down to Mrs P for educating :D
Ralph Ferrand

Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)

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#130 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sat Dec 20, 2008 8:45 am

Dodgy: I have complete stripped cases & washed out for ages..... There was only a token amount of dust 'blowing' round not loads of grit :wink:

I shall have another good look at the casings before assembly starts.... I also have a gallon of 'flushing' oil in the garage...
Mixed views on this stuff, but if I run engine carefully until warm, then drain oil & FLUSH... :?? :?:

Ralphy.... Good point mate.... will peel back the rubbers :shock: & insert some red lube....... :wink:


I actually used Silkolene 'air-line' oil which is rubber freindly... and only a minimal smudge to aid fitting :P
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#131 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Sat Dec 20, 2008 9:28 am

Just pop the pistons out, and hook the seals out, it doesn't take long and make sure you get the rubber grease right into the back of the groove (as they said in the 70's) to prevent water getting in there from the fluid.

Now I've got to go downstairs to the workshop and do the same to some Guzzi Brembo brakes :D Their pistons are teflon coated which is great. Hopefully Mr Postman will see fit to deliver the seal kits for them today and my CLUB MAG :evil: :grr :grr
Ralph Ferrand

Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)

http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk

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#132 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Sat Dec 20, 2008 5:19 pm

Brembo seal kits arrived but still no club mag :cry: :bawl :bawl :bawl :bawl
Ralph Ferrand

Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)

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#133 PostAuthor: Pigford » Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:58 pm

Day off work today........ Mrs P gone to work.... :twisted:

Set up temporary 'workshop' in the nice warm kitchen :!: In with the Lawson casings & inner bits........ :P

So, new cam chain fitted over crank.... then whack it in the top casing, lining up all bearings & location pins :wink:

Next fit both gear assemblies...... line up with half rings in casing :|

Torque down crank centre clamp. Use 'Permatex' (Ultra Black) on case joints.... :twisted:

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Carefully line up cases & gear selectors & assemble......

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Sooooo exciting...... :roll:

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Torque rest of crank bolts & then do all smalled bolts...... Turn engine over & fit rest of bolts :lol:

Tidy up kitchen before Mrs P returns home..... Luchtime..... :twisted:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#134 PostAuthor: phil churchett » Mon Dec 22, 2008 4:11 pm

I really wish Mrs P had finished work early and come home to find her kitchen in a BIG mess :twisted: :twisted:
Four pipes rule, anything else is second best.

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#135 PostAuthor: Dodgy Z1B » Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:56 pm

Roller bearing cranks so much easier to put in place rather than fannying about with poxy shell bearings, put a cb550 engine together recently and every time went to put cases together one of the shells would move, pishy H**** for yeh :)
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