FORK SEAL REPLACEMENT

[PAULJAC47]

Hi All next job i intend to do is the fork oil seals on my Z1B.Any tips on best way to go, manual is a bit vague.Any advice appreciated as always...Paulj..

[paulstrees]

Hi Paul ( Dave )
Through the kitchen into the garage is the best way, saves going out in the cold!!!!!

[Pigford]

Do one at a time..... that way, if you fcuk up, you've got the other one to check how it should go together..

The only awkward bit, can be the botton allen screw (where spindle sits).

Just take your time and treat the rubber seals like a women... loads of lubrication is best

[PAULJAC47]

Cheers Mate i thought for a split second it was an intelligent response..Dave

[Pigford]

The main theme is factual (inteligent) with just a twist of humour

[PAULJAC47]

Thanks Pigford do you need any special tools?

[PAULJAC47]

Pigford my response was aimed at my mate Paulstrees not yourself!!!!!

[Pigford]

If the bottom (not botton) allen screw is spinning, a common cure is to use a broom handle 'rammed' down the leg to hold the damper still, so it can be undone
Works well when reassembling too
As mention in a similar thread quite recently, one of those GATOR socket apparently works well.... the one with lots of pins in it so it fits any size nut

[Taffus]

another tip is if you have copper sealing washers on the allen key, heat the washer red hot to aneal it, fit when cold. This softens the copper aiding it to seal

[Steve Cooke]

Make sure you oil the new seal first to assist in fitting and when you assemble the legs the allen bolt at the bottom should be refitted using non permanent threadlock on the threads and both sides of the washer should be coated with liquid gasket.
P.S. You will need a suitable drift to fit the new seals into place, I used a metal washer that had a slightly smaller od. than the seal and a length of waste pipe longer than the stanchion to drive them home.

[Garn 1]

Besides the trouble often found with the hex socket screws at the bottom, I've found the hardest part of this job can be removing the old seals.

After removing the retaining washer and circlip, I've found the best way is to use heat. With the stanchion standing up in a vice (held by the two cap studs). I use a small copper or brass shim to protect the alloy and then pry with a large screw driver that has been suitable ground to do the job. Some seals are extremely tight and you need the heat to expand the alloy.
RegardZ

[DogsbolloxofZ1B]

Top tip for removing the old oil seals, works every time. Place a small section of flat stock metal across the top of stanchion, place the neck of a claw hammer on it and pivoting on the flat stok oik it out with the claw-end. 10 secs job done. The flat stock prevents damage to the top of the stanchion & spreads the load. Obviously you remove the wire ring first.

[RALPHARAMA]

The easiest way to get the cap screw at the bottom out is to use an air impact gun - cheap as chips from Machine Mart. If you get a piece of wood around the size of a broom handle and make a long taper at one end this will lock the damper rod whilst you remove the screw.

I have always used the unsatisfactory method of a pry bar and a bit of metal to protect the top of the slider, but I now have the proper tool in my workshop to copy - I'm too tight to buy one

Annealing the copper washer is good workshop practice as has already been stated.

I wouldn't use liquid gasket around the sealing washers as it has a tendency to ball up in the wrong places and then travel around inside. If you want to be extra sure you could coat both sides of the copper washer with Wellseal and non-setting jointing compound.

[Steve Cooke]

Travel around inside what? a light smear to the washer doesn't ball up anywhere it's only an insurance policy and is the proper way to do it.

[Jumbo]

If you look towards the start of this page:-

http://pic5.piczo.com/z900/?g=5845840&cr=5

There is a picture of the forks in bits, it comes from a fellow member from Australia.