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Thread on z650 crankcase/head studs
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Thread on z650 crankcase/head studs
I'm trying to get the studs out of my upper cranckcase using the trusty 'two nuts together' technique- does anyone know what the thread is as it doesn't seem to be the standard metric thread....
Stu
Stu
Currently restoring a 78 z650
Hi Stu,
Cant help with thread size on a z650 but on the Z1 its 10mm x 1.25.
I have just taken all the studs out of my Z1A crankcase using the trusty mole grip method with no problems. soaked them in wd 40 each night for a week then Used a large mole grip and gripped the stud near to the base to avoid bending them, all came out with no problem.
Probably would not want to reuse them as they are marked by the grips but I am putting Ape studs in any way.
Cant help with thread size on a z650 but on the Z1 its 10mm x 1.25.
I have just taken all the studs out of my Z1A crankcase using the trusty mole grip method with no problems. soaked them in wd 40 each night for a week then Used a large mole grip and gripped the stud near to the base to avoid bending them, all came out with no problem.
Probably would not want to reuse them as they are marked by the grips but I am putting Ape studs in any way.
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Mole grips, Stilsons ?
You barbarians
You were quite correct to use two nuts. You can get some stud extractors from Machine Mart for not very much, which work on a roller cam method which work very well and aren't expensive - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro57-4-pce-stud-extractor-set
Mole grips .... stilsons ...
shame on you 


You were quite correct to use two nuts. You can get some stud extractors from Machine Mart for not very much, which work on a roller cam method which work very well and aren't expensive - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/pro57-4-pce-stud-extractor-set
Mole grips .... stilsons ...


Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Can I suggest you warm the cases where the studs go in.
I find it also helps to "rock" the offending studs backward and forward once they move.
If they don`t move just keep "rocking" and warming, with a Butane torch, and heaps of penetrating oil.
Patience really is a virtue in this case.
I find it also helps to "rock" the offending studs backward and forward once they move.
If they don`t move just keep "rocking" and warming, with a Butane torch, and heaps of penetrating oil.
Patience really is a virtue in this case.
Asphalt Cowboy
Phil Churchett award winner 2015
Phil Churchett award winner 2015
Ok, an update in case it helps anyone out.... Stud remover was one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0280439001
Long story short, it did not work. Consensus was that it probably offered more purchase than the two nut method, but was still slipping (these bolts were in tight!) Tried heat, soaking in wd40, still couldn't get them to shift. In the end, went back to mole grips and I was shown that if you orient them one way they get tighter as you turn - sounds obvious, but sometimes you need to hear these things... Got em out now, casings off being blasted...
Stu
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0280439001
Long story short, it did not work. Consensus was that it probably offered more purchase than the two nut method, but was still slipping (these bolts were in tight!) Tried heat, soaking in wd40, still couldn't get them to shift. In the end, went back to mole grips and I was shown that if you orient them one way they get tighter as you turn - sounds obvious, but sometimes you need to hear these things... Got em out now, casings off being blasted...
Stu
Currently restoring a 78 z650
Well done Mothra....
In my opinion (tried & trusted over 30yrs) its often more down to the operator than the tool itself
I have survived on Halfords tools and if you are competent & experienced, you can usually get the job done quite satifactorily...
OK, its great having spangly brand name stuff, but you gotta have some aptitude as well...
Glad you sussed it out.... 10/10
In my opinion (tried & trusted over 30yrs) its often more down to the operator than the tool itself

I have survived on Halfords tools and if you are competent & experienced, you can usually get the job done quite satifactorily...
OK, its great having spangly brand name stuff, but you gotta have some aptitude as well...

Glad you sussed it out.... 10/10

And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
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