engine paint

[paulmceleney]

can anyone help iam about to paint my engine satin black using pj1 how clean does the engine need to be to get a good finish . Ive taken the engine out and iam using a wire brush wire wool does the engine need to look like new .

[mikey]

I wouldnt say like new i just done what your doing wire brushes and wire wool took fecking hours, most important thing make sure all surfaces are grease and oil free use plenty white spirit to clean it.

[paulmceleney]

thanks for that . have you got any pictures of the engine you sprayed thanks paul.

[mikey]

No sorry paul im useless with pcs and that kinda thing i get ralph to do that kinda thing for me

[MaineKZ]

Hi Paul

You don't need to remove original paint entirely - just need to be sure that what paint is left is not lose or flaking. Beyond that it's always best to scratch up the existing paint surface to provide a good key for the new finish - wire brush, wet'n'dry or wire wool will all do the job.

Above all, the surfaces need to be thoroughly degreased as said before. I use petrol as a first treatment, then I use the spray on cleaner/prep from Frost Supplies - this is excellent for final prep. Treat small areas at a time - spray on the get right into all crevices with a small stiff bristled hogs hair brush. Keep cleaning off brush and repeat until spotless.

Also very important not to spoon the new finish on, several light coats will adhere far better.

Best of luck!!

[paulmceleney]

thanks for your tips

[Keefleaf]

Try spraying with thinners first.Cheap/effective.

[MaineKZ]

Not if you have to hire a spray gun and compressor!

[RALPHARAMA]

I have found my dremmel to be indispensable fo clean up bikes. I use the didy little wire brushes. The ones sold by Dremmel are bloody expensive and don't last particularly well. I buy mine from Axminster tools - they are as cheap as chips and very effective. I have found that the brass ones have their use but mostly I use the steel ones. The brass ones seem to leave a brassy coating on aluminium casings which doesn't look great. The little straight ones are great for getting into tight corners, but don't run them over 9000rpm else they'll soon look like the radial brushes Even the radial brushes shouldn't be run too fast, mush over 12K and they start to molt like a German Shepherd, but unlike the dog don't have hairs just waiting to repace those discarded

Bugger & Queer flogged me my kit which came wiv loadsa accessories and a flexible drive which is extremely useful for around a ton. Seemed a lot at the time, but it's paid for itself over and over again - it never get put away in it's box cos it's always plugged in

[paulmceleney]

thanks everyone for your tips, the engine has now been painted and looks great

[Pasc]

Ralph, I bought a dremel type mini tool from Maplins. I know it's not the same quality as a Dremel but it came with about 100 accessories and only cost £20. It's been worth your weight in gold. Paid for itself over and over again. When it packs up in a puff of smoke I'll be straight back down there for another. Need to wear a pair of spacky glasses when using the wire brushes though as they do tend to shed their spines. What can you get for £20 these days ?

[RALPHARAMA]

The bottom line is that it's a variable speed lecky motor with a collet chuck on one end

Curiously my first Dremmel really was I pile of untreated sewerage, with the front bearing collapsing early in it's life which begs the question why I bought another

The second is soooo much better and the flexi-drive makes a massive difference. I suspect that had I seen a cheap copy in the Hi De Hi shop, I may have given it due consideration especially at twenty quid, though I am a real sucker for nice tools and have spent a King's ransom on Snap-On tools over the years

If it does the jobs then it's good value

[mikey]

Yep ralphy sure has wedged out on tools
ive seen his work shop believe me hes got
a tool for everything.