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Exhaust studs which way round?
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Exhaust studs which way round?
The exhaust studs have a thread 13mm one end and 17mm the other I think its the longer end that goes in to the cylinder head but could some one please confirm this to me. 

Steve. I have looked at mine and I can tell you that there is a maximum of 2 threads protruding once the exhaust collars are fitted and everything is done up tight.
I would agree that the longer end would seem to go into the head but just to be sure I would dry fit the studs and offer up the exhaust before you thread seal the studs in place.
Obviously if there are more than 2 threads protruding then they are wrong, I.E short end has been fitted into the head.
I`m sure someone else will know for sure having taken their exhaust off many times, but I believe that my engine has never even been out of the frame.
Hope this helps ?
I would agree that the longer end would seem to go into the head but just to be sure I would dry fit the studs and offer up the exhaust before you thread seal the studs in place.
Obviously if there are more than 2 threads protruding then they are wrong, I.E short end has been fitted into the head.
I`m sure someone else will know for sure having taken their exhaust off many times, but I believe that my engine has never even been out of the frame.
Hope this helps ?
Thanks for that Chris, I dont think it will work measuring like that as I am using a non standard exhaust, non standard collers and stainless nuts.
Should have mentioned its a Z1000 head with the 8mm studs.
Chris can you measure how much the studs are sticking out of the head at all, if yours is a Z1000 Please ?
One way on mine they stick out 30mm the other way 33mm.
Should have mentioned its a Z1000 head with the 8mm studs.
Chris can you measure how much the studs are sticking out of the head at all, if yours is a Z1000 Please ?
One way on mine they stick out 30mm the other way 33mm.
- RALPHARAMA
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The end with less thread goes into the head as you need more threaded length to take down the gaskets. I would also recommend that you use loctite stud lock on the end that goes into the head.
The threaded portion should not bottom out so if you have two threads left protruding then you have the stud in the wrong way round
You should lock two plain nuts against one another so that you can torque the studs at the correct setting.
The threaded portion should not bottom out so if you have two threads left protruding then you have the stud in the wrong way round

You should lock two plain nuts against one another so that you can torque the studs at the correct setting.
Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
There you go Steve, told you someone would know for sure.
God I bet Ralph`s a load of fun on a night out
I would agree though that you do not want the stud to bottom out within the head as the expansion of the head will force the stud against the threads and strip them.
I meant that my threads stick out from the nut by no more than two. Were the studs the other way round then this would be different.
As far as torquing the studs down, what to ? Surely you are only forcing the collared part of the stud against the head. Can`t be much torque there surely ?
If you don`t have a torque wrench, I would suggest some stilsons with an extension bar maybe
God I bet Ralph`s a load of fun on a night out

I would agree though that you do not want the stud to bottom out within the head as the expansion of the head will force the stud against the threads and strip them.
I meant that my threads stick out from the nut by no more than two. Were the studs the other way round then this would be different.
As far as torquing the studs down, what to ? Surely you are only forcing the collared part of the stud against the head. Can`t be much torque there surely ?
If you don`t have a torque wrench, I would suggest some stilsons with an extension bar maybe

- RALPHARAMA
- Area Rep.
- Posts: 3407
- Joined: 19th May 2007
- Location: Pensford, Somerset
- Contact:
od I bet Ralph`s a load of fun on a night out Wink
I'm OK slonlg as I doont drom k


Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
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