hmmm, again searched for "chain replacement", got 400 odd matches, none of which, well first 4 pages anyway, looked like relevant so here goes ....
1. is there are way to measure the chain to determine it has worn to its limit? (on bike chains I have a specific measurement for 10 links that is when the chain has worn to 1 % ).
2. I have an open DID chain, not read instructions yet but think it has a joining link - aren't these frowned on? Anyone using one of these links on a Z?
3. I may have a go and re-riveting the chain to make it endless - am I likely to knacker the chain?
4. Is it possible to fit an endless chain? I would need to "split" the rear triangle - i.e. remove the rear wheel and undo shoc as well as remove the gear lever and side engine cover - is that correcct? Anything I should be aware of?
(I will be replacing both sprockets).
sorry for numpty questions but Haynes does not say much about replacing chains.)
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chain replacement
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
my not very scientific approach to chain replacements is :
1 obviously worn
2 can pull chain awaiy from rear sprocket
3 sprockets worn - replace as a set
4 tight spots on the chain - need bike on a stand to check this.
5 if you take it off and it sags a lot sideways.
i'd always use an endless chain. - you will need to remove the swingarm though to get it on - not too difficult.
if you need to borrow a stand let me know.
1 obviously worn
2 can pull chain awaiy from rear sprocket
3 sprockets worn - replace as a set
4 tight spots on the chain - need bike on a stand to check this.
5 if you take it off and it sags a lot sideways.
i'd always use an endless chain. - you will need to remove the swingarm though to get it on - not too difficult.
if you need to borrow a stand let me know.
chrisu wrote:my not very scientific approach to chain replacements is :
you will need to remove the swingarm though to get it on - not too difficult.
balls
how come? I thought remving rear wheel/sindle will allow the chain to get over the swing arm - obvioulsy there is something I am not aware of .... (need a closer look I guess).
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Steve Cooke
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1612
- Joined: 18th Mar 2007
- Location: Southampton
Split links are fine, soft link is better as long as you use the correct tool to fit it and not just beat it over with an old chisel or ballpein hammer, as i'm no longer interested in standing my Zed on end any more I don't mind using a split link and I have never had any issues with them. Obviously if your changing sprockets you'll need to remove the wheel and engine cover, if your just changing the chain link the new onto old and draw it through.
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Geoff Meager
- ZedHead
- Posts: 1140
- Joined: 5th Apr 2007
- Location: Dereham. Norfolk.
I had a split link 'pop' off, but thats been covered on here before.
630, billet offset front sprox & billet engine mountings...
Soft links are bestest..... squish 'em on & no worries
Cost same as split link (few pennies) and just grind off if chain needs removing.... saves fannying about removing swingarms.. etc
630, billet offset front sprox & billet engine mountings...
Soft links are bestest..... squish 'em on & no worries
Cost same as split link (few pennies) and just grind off if chain needs removing.... saves fannying about removing swingarms.. etc And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
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