HELP Barrels stuck

[Steve R]

Started stripping it down and I can not get the barrels to move at all already broke one fin

Any one any ideas

Any one know who will weld a fin back on , how much?

[mikey]

Mine were the same steve i dripped some 3 in 1 oil down the studs left over night and just carefully worked them loose next day still managed to break a fin though but it was so small didnt get it repaired you gota realy look to see it

[Rich]

Soak the front studs at the bottom where they go into the barrels - diesel is good - use the pry slots at each end with a good fit flat screwdriver blade and gently work them loose, pack them up with alloy strips if you want to raise the height.

SEP or Weldspec will weld the fin back for you

[Steve R]

Rich, no pry slots on mine. I think I will soak it oil as said and leave it for a week, sounds like a good excuse to give up and have a beer.

[steve f]

rich is correct DIESEL is better than oil

[Pigford]

Steve, wrap some rope or nylon strapping around the barrels & if engine is still in the frame, tie over frame spine (top) and leave the rope in tension, so its pulling the barrels firmly up, away from the cases

If the engines out of frame, rig it up so the engine weight is just supported by the barrels - similar arrangement as above to keep in tension

[Steve R]

Happy now I have got it off, thanks for suggestions. Used ratchet strap through cam tensioner hole and round top of frame, slim screwdriver hammered into back as wedge and stick of wood hit with hammer against bottom middle of fins and off it eventually came!!

Is SEP engineering at Kegworth in derbyshire?

How do I tell if the cam chain and rollers are worn at all?
They look ok there is not to much side ways deflection on chain , no missing teeth on rollers although they seem pretty"loose" on shafts, no splits in rubber blocks although they seem quite "hard". I really dont know what I am looking for?

With regards to my broken fin, I have the three little bits, this may sound crap but can I super glue them back on? They will fit on perfectly and if the glue would withstand the heat then you would never know what does any one think?

[Pigford]

Now you've got the barrels off, any half decent welder will be able to weld the bits back on, & you can file 'em to look OK

Rollers will move side ways, but must not TWIST on shafts

Cam chains are less than ?20, so probably worth replacing as you're going this far

[RALPHARAMA]

Steve

The main problem with the cam chain rollers isn't so much wear in them but if the rubber is old and fucked (like me) it could break up and then cause all manner of probs. There are lots of little rubber pads in the cam chain system that will almost certainly want replacing unless the engine has had a recent rebuild. They are farty little things whose cost disproportionate but if they commit hari kari you'll be in the do-do. Examine all the plastic/rubber bits - if they look badly worn or at all cracked bin 'em and replace. Z-Power stock them all.

If in any doubt about any part of your rebuild get a zed mate to have a gander. Even though I have rebuild loadsa bike engines in my time and have a proper engineering apprenticeship behind me, I often get a second opinion on stuff before I get the hammer out

Glue won't work on the fins. My opinion is that you would need a real specialist to stick fins back so that they don't show. I have read on here about folk who have done invisible repairs on fins. I am sure someone on here will put you onto someone with the experience to do that sort of repair.

[london calling]

SEP,Kegworth,J24/M1.
TEL:01509 673295.

[Rich]

The rubbers want to be flexible not hard. Order new ones from Jef at Z1 Ent, with the ?:$ at present you are silly not to. If you want longer lasting and more accurate timing put Liska ones in, but they will be noisier.

[Hack]

SEP at Kegworth sorted out my fin damage (as recommended by Jack).

I asked if they could weld the tiny broken bit back on but they just built the missing piece up with weld and then shaped it - you would be hard pushed to tell where the repair is and as the surface oxidises it looks even better.

Andy

[Pigford]

SteveR, I could do with some rubbers too, so if you're gona order some, lets get together, to save on postage

[FER]

If you have the engine apart now I would replace all the cam drive gear , wheels , chain and rubbers . I would go for the Liska wheels as they will not wear out and they do not have platic on them to get chewed up by the cam chain and contaminate the oil . If you do this the engine will not need to come apart for years . Do it right the first time !






fer

[Steve R]

Thanks for all the advice.
If I could afford the time and money I would split the engine get the crank welded and replace all the cam chain and tensioners etc with Liska. But i was not expecting to do any of this now so if it all looks ok I will reuse it all and leave that for another day/year!

I think I will take the head and barrels down to sep and while I am there ask them to have a look at the cam wheels etc. and see if they think they are ok