Alternator cover oil leak

[Steve R]

Got a leak from the usual place where the wires go, got a gasket and new rubber block from Zpower to fit tomorrow.
Has any one done this?do I need to cut and re solder the wires,if so which end is best? Do I need to use any silicone as well.
Thanks Steve R

[london calling]

Hi Steve,there's no need to cut the wires.There is a male/female connection for the alternator wiring behind the sprocket cover.
Yes you'll need to use some silicon sealant as well around the rubber grommet where it butts upto the crankcase.If you got a factory workshop manual it shows you exactly where.My advice is to use a little too much then,you can trim it back when it has dried.But i do mean a little not the whole tube!!
It's much easier to do then describe how to do it.

[rickman CRR]

Hi Steve,

Previous owner of my Z1 had attempted to make a good seal and had used plenty of silicon sealant, however it still weeped. I considered buying a new rubber block but decided to be a cheapskate and cleaned it all up, buffed the sealing edge of the rubber block with emery paper, applied new sealant sparingly along with a new gasket and surprisingly this stopped the weep. Maybe try buffing the faces of the block and try this before cutting wires.
As for what end do you cut?.....I'd suggest reconnecting the wires on the outside of the casing where there is more room to work and perhaps more serviceable. Connections open to the elements though.

[rickman CRR]

Jack

if he needs to thread the alternator wires through the new rubber block surely you need to cut the wires somewhere?

[Rich]

You may find that if you've still got the clothbraided silicone insulated cable the oil carries along the braid.

Alternative 1:
If you want to make a professional job remove the stator, wash and dry. The wires are soldered to the solid copper winding wires, remove the braided insulation, open the cable clamp and desolder the connection. Pull the wires through the grommet and replace it, when putting the wires back through the new one you will have to work the overbraid through as it will flare up the cable. The overbraid will need to be replaced at the solder joint- either get some new from Maplins etc (or strip it out of some old electrical junk) and ideally lacquered into place - nick the misses nail varnish. Tighten the clamp and away you go - after replacing the cover that is!

Alternative 2:
If you have the male part of the bullet connector on the wires you may find that it will push through the hole in the new grommet ( I think the originals had a metal sleeve bonded in as well) but be careful that the clamp doesn't damage the grommet - washing up liquid lubricates it well and washes off for applying the silicone later.

Alternative 3:
Stagger cut the wires inside the casing, put new grommet on BLa Bla. get some heat shrink sleeving and put over cable, solder cable together inside the casing, slide the heatshrink over the joint and fix in place The cuts are staggered so the bulk is minimised in the casing.

Ideally 2 is best if not replacing the cables, 1 if replacing the cables and 3 may give problems if the cables have become oxidised. Clean the release wax from the grommet before applying silicone (acetone is good or emery paper as Colin says)

The best option is to fit a Scotoiler to the gearbox sprocket and not worry about the oil drips!! :

[Steve R]

Thanks for all the advice, I have got a stupid question now.
when we are talking silicone sealant are we talking ordinary house hold stuff like you would put round the bath? or are we talking about something that is special for engines?

[Rich]

Personally I use the translucant bath stuff, ?2.20 for a really big tube, just put some clingfilm over the end when you've done.

[hanskloss]

I've done mine 2 years ago when fixing my alternator windings, used the old rubber and put a generous amount of silicone sealant around and tried to cover as much wiring as I could, wiped the excess of silicone after, done over 5200 miles since and it's dry as Chuck Norris's underpants , as to the silicone I used LOCTITE black one (forgot the number) , check this site just to get an idea ( http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/loc37467.html ) but there is lots of other makes, I wouldn't recommend using the bath one as it might not be as oil and heat resistant as automotive ones, never tried though and not tempted - just do it right first time

[Steve R]

Thanks Hans,
I thought it was a stupid question until I rang round various spares depts. saturday afternoon and they did not know either, went to Halfords and found black Loctite silicone like you mentioned so I will sort it when I get a bit of free time.
Regards Steve

[Steve R]

Well did this job on saturday. Once I had it all apart there was pleny of clear/ black silicone where people had tried to seal it in the past.
The wires go into a block connector where they plug into harness under right hand side panel, I dont know how to take them apart.
At the other end I took the stator off but it was not easy to actually see where the wires went and the more I looked at it the less I fancied de soldering wires from that.
I did not really want to split the wires either as they still had all the original covers on them
So I used Colins suggestion, cleaned it all up with washing up liquid to get rid of old oil and got rid of all the old siliclone that mostly lookes like it had been gobbed on without taking the rubber out.
Used Loctite rtv silicone copper sparingly on inside and edges but filled the alloy casing outside of the seal.
Filled it with oil last night and had it running to get it good and warm and no leaks this morning so hopefully its sorted.
As ever thanks for all suggestions and help.
Regards Steve

[london calling]

Steve,pleased to hear everything is o.k. now
On the J type motors the alternator wiring has 3 seperate connectors behind the sprocket cover which makes things much easier.Which Z have you got?? :

[Steve R]

Hi Jack,
Its a Z1a I could not find any connectors, its still not leaked yet though so fingers crossed.

[london calling]

Hi Steve,my fault for not asking what model it was sooner.It's much easier on the later models due to the connectors in the alternator wiring.All sorted now.

[Steve S]

Hi Guys,
Glad you posted this Steve,as its on my list of jobs to do this winter,purchased a new rubber grommet from Z-power ready to go,hopefully a smear of silicon will suffice.Thanks for the help.
P.s are we saying there are no connectors bedind the sprocket cover on the Z1a,s

[rickman CRR]

Steve S

If you re-read the post, you'll see that Steve R decided to reuse the existing rubber block with slight scrub up of the mating surfaces, along with some silicon sealer and new gasket. This saves cutting the wires which would be necessary if you decide to use the new rubber block. Jack assumed Steve R's bike was a Z1000J which has connectors within the alternator casing. As you have a Z1A, the alternator lead plugs into the block connector panel behind your side panel. There is no connectors behind the sprocket covers unless its been messed about with.

Before you snip any wires, try cleaning it all up and use emery paper to remove the hardened seal faces on the existing rubber plug. This creates a better mating finish.

good luck.