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Carburettors

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paulstrees
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Carburettors

#1 PostAuthor: paulstrees » Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:39 pm

Can anyone tell me the easiest way to remove carbs from a z1000a2.
Thanks
Paul

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Surfdeneige
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#2 PostAuthor: Surfdeneige » Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:46 pm

Others will say different but undo the front and back clamps removing the rear ones completely. Push down with your thumb on top of the airbox rubbers and they will simply fold and drop through. Pull the carbs back.
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#3 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:53 pm

Getting the buggers out is massively easier than getting them back in! I've just refitted mine!

I've always pulled them back towards the air box (having undone all the clamps first) and then tilt them front up and then drag them sideways to the right.
Ralph Ferrand
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#4 PostAuthor: chrisu » Tue Mar 04, 2008 4:58 pm

and if the rubbers to the airbox have hardened getting them back on will be next to impossible.

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Re: Carburettors

#5 PostAuthor: phil churchett » Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:42 pm

paulstrees wrote:Can anyone tell me the easiest way to remove carbs from a z1000a2.
Thanks
Paul

I don't think there is an easy way, they are a b*****d to get off and as ChrisU says, the rubbers harden with age. Once you do get the carbs off, it is worth replacing the rubbers if funds allow.
It may be worth trying to soften the rubbers up with a hair dryer.
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#6 PostAuthor: floydsz1 » Tue Mar 04, 2008 5:49 pm

Was just going to say same as phil, do it in a nice warm garage. If the rubbers are cold they are a pig to get back on. warm em up first. Be careful not to damage the clamps, (squashing them). Not sure how the air box is bolted to the frame on the z1000a2, if you can remove anything that is holding it, it can often be moved back a small amount and this should make it a bit easyer.good luck

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#7 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:06 pm

When refitting them I would take the clamps off the airbox rubbers altogether. Luckily mine weren't too hard, but a bit of soapy water can help encourage reluctant things slip into rubber holes! (bit like Viagra for Kawasakis)
Ralph Ferrand

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#8 PostAuthor: Surfdeneige » Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:12 pm

I just used oil. That does mean that they become a little slippery but after you have done it 10 times it becomes easy.
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#9 PostAuthor: Skunkwurcx » Sat Mar 15, 2008 1:25 am

I just came in from the shed after having put mine back in...there are simply not enough cuss words available for this job. WTF was Mr Kawasaki thinking anyway ? Worst piece of designing I have yet encountered :evil:

Anyways, an extra pair of hands showed up and it was far easier after that.

Before the extra hands showed up I got to looking at things...would this work ? : Place a floor jack beneath the front of the engine and have it just so it takes the weight of the bike. Loosen and remove the front engine bolt and the bottom frame to engine bolts. Basically any other bolt that holds the engine in place except for the rear bolt. Loosen that a bit if need be. Lower the engine as much as possible. Place the carbs in the airbox boots and raise the engine back to meet them.

My theory is that the engine would pivot down on the rear bolt gaining enough clearance that the carbs could easily be slid back in. Most of you guys know these bikes far better than I do for certain....could that work ?

Andrew

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#10 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:44 am

I know fitting the carbs is a right royal pain in the asre, but un bolting the engine does seem a tad radical excessive. You'd be risking damaging paintwork, crushing bits of loom (wiring harness). You'd have to remove the exhaust, loosen off or maybe even remove the final drive chain. Nah doesn't seem like a goer to me :|
Ralph Ferrand

Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)

http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk

Skunkwurcx

#11 PostAuthor: Skunkwurcx » Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:45 am

Ah wires :!: In my case, the exhaust is yet to be fitted, it goes on today :D The paint work isn't back yet, so the frame would be the only thing there. As for the wires, I think that may be okay too. The engine could really only pivot down about an inch before it would contact the front frame, and that would be all that was needed.

It is a lot to go through I admit. I was just thinking that I would rather undo some bolts than go through the effort of shoving those carbs back in. When I was taking them out I was already dreading the thought of putting them back in. Ridiculous.

I can think of at least three designs that could have been used that would have made that an easy task. Just the time saved on the assembly line would have been worth a look at a simpler design. :roll:

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#12 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:51 pm

I was gonna say 'Junk the air box' and fit K&N's..... :oops:
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#13 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Sat Mar 15, 2008 5:37 pm

Nah, you wouldn't make a silly suggestion like that Mark ... would you :?:
Ralph Ferrand

Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)

http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk

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#14 PostAuthor: Skunkwurcx » Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:45 pm

Pigford wrote:I was gonna say 'Junk the air box' and fit K&N's..... :oops:


I could understand why some people would go with them now. Most of the opinions that I've heard and read on them is to stay away from them though. Basically, more grief than they are worth.

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#15 PostAuthor: Surfdeneige » Sat Mar 15, 2008 10:42 pm

Don't believe all the hype. It's not that bad really it is all about technique. You get to do it in about 10mins once you're good at it.
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