Hi,
Now that I have my head on (that feels better) looking at setting up the valve timing of the J. I have a Clymer manual which says that the exhaust cam should be set with the ?ex? etched mark in line with the top of the head. Starting with the pin closest to that point and calling that ?point 0?, the inlet cam etched mark called ?In? should be 44 more pins away from there. All this whilst the crank is set on the ?T 1 4? mark. Is that correct?
I assume that when fitting the cams it is necessary to ensure that any slack is taken out of the chain run on the exhaust side (ie it is hard up against the guide)?
Any suggestions for start up lubricant should the cam journals be smothered in moly based grease or is just saturating them and the cam lobes with standard oil sufficient?
Once the cams are fitted thus the chain tensioner can be put in place to tighten up the inlet side chain run. The J has the sliding wedge chain adjuster so I assume the correct tensioning method is to turn the engine in a forward direction by hand and the tensioner should set iself?
Once this is set up and checked once more for correct timing attend to valve clearances?
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Cam timing - Final rebuild stages of a "J"
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Nowt new there then Chris! Ah well that's me banned :biggrin:
KZ1000J Kawa manual. Use square recess holes for mounting the inlet cam and the round recess holes for the ex cam.
Rotate crankshaft clockwise from timing cover keeping the camchain tight until 1&4 T mark aligns with timing mark.
EX mark on cam level with head face - chain is still taught - The first pin is the one ABOVE the EX mark. 44th pin should correspond to the IN mark on the in cam sprocket
L is left R is right on the cams.
Bolt cams down, (I liberally oil with engine oil, and run the engine around on the starter before firing up) If it's a new built then use molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the new surdaces and the liberally oil.
Make sure that the chain is seated in the grooves on the front and rear guides. Tighten caps bla, bla bla.
Do not let the chain go slack while doing the above.
Then install camchain tensioner.
To check the Timing after fitting the tensioner and tensioning the chain turn the crank TWO turns in the normal direction by hand (shine a light down the plug hole of no1 to make sure the valves clear) if all is well the marks should align as first set.
Looking down the plug hole for the clearance saves tears later!!!! Always rotate clockwise whilst doing the timing.
KZ1000J Kawa manual. Use square recess holes for mounting the inlet cam and the round recess holes for the ex cam.
Rotate crankshaft clockwise from timing cover keeping the camchain tight until 1&4 T mark aligns with timing mark.
EX mark on cam level with head face - chain is still taught - The first pin is the one ABOVE the EX mark. 44th pin should correspond to the IN mark on the in cam sprocket
L is left R is right on the cams.
Bolt cams down, (I liberally oil with engine oil, and run the engine around on the starter before firing up) If it's a new built then use molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the new surdaces and the liberally oil.
Make sure that the chain is seated in the grooves on the front and rear guides. Tighten caps bla, bla bla.
Do not let the chain go slack while doing the above.
Then install camchain tensioner.
To check the Timing after fitting the tensioner and tensioning the chain turn the crank TWO turns in the normal direction by hand (shine a light down the plug hole of no1 to make sure the valves clear) if all is well the marks should align as first set.
Looking down the plug hole for the clearance saves tears later!!!! Always rotate clockwise whilst doing the timing.
I know you didn't really mean this Rich but following the sequence it reads like this.. I'd be somewhat lairy about wizzing the engine round on the starter with no camchain tensioner ie DON'T. And to be honest on the J motor the cam timing isn't completely right until the cam cover is on with the camchain guide in it so I'd stay away from the starter completely until it's all back together. It's different on the early motor where the top guide is bolted to the turret thing. If you want oil round it turn it over with a spanner. Just me being cautious...
-
Jon
Guys thanks for your tips. Have done that part of the work and the timing marks seem to be in the correct places after rotating by hand a few times
One further question is regarding the H shaped cam cover. I have so far been too mean to fork out for the cam cover gasket, proposing to use liquid stuff on the joint. Then I wondered if the thickness of that gasket is critical as there is a cam chain guide in the cover and not using the gasket would seem to load it more. Any views?
But before that lets check the clearances. The shim you want is of course the one you have not got
One further question is regarding the H shaped cam cover. I have so far been too mean to fork out for the cam cover gasket, proposing to use liquid stuff on the joint. Then I wondered if the thickness of that gasket is critical as there is a cam chain guide in the cover and not using the gasket would seem to load it more. Any views?
But before that lets check the clearances. The shim you want is of course the one you have not got
Quote: from Jon on 8:50 pm on Oct. 18, 2006
Cautious is best. Not a stage where you want to make mistakes. Check, check, n check again really. Been through all that couple of weeks ago with Harris head. Pain in the arse, but just work slow and methodical. Dont try rush it! :)
absolutely - I was sloppy once on one motor - cost me 2 new exhaust valves.
Quote: from Rich on 7:09 pm on Oct. 18, 2006
Nowt new there then Chris! Ah well that's me banned :biggrin:
KZ1000J Kawa manual. Use square recess holes for mounting the inlet cam and the round recess holes for the ex cam.
Rotate crankshaft clockwise from timing cover keeping the camchain tight until 1&4 T mark aligns with timing mark.
EX mark on cam level with head face - chain is still taught - The first pin is the one ABOVE the EX mark. 44th pin should correspond to the IN mark on the in cam sprocket
L is left R is right on the cams.
Bolt cams down, (I liberally oil with engine oil, and run the engine around on the starter before firing up) If it's a new built then use molybdenum disulfide engine assembly grease to the new surdaces and the liberally oil.
Make sure that the chain is seated in the grooves on the front and rear guides. Tighten caps bla, bla bla.
Do not let the chain go slack while doing the above.
Then install camchain tensioner.
To check the Timing after fitting the tensioner and tensioning the chain turn the crank TWO turns in the normal direction by hand (shine a light down the plug hole of no1 to make sure the valves clear) if all is well the marks should align as first set.
Looking down the plug hole for the clearance saves tears later!!!! Always rotate clockwise whilst doing the timing.
Nah - I'm not that sensitive - don't worry. Mr Doran might be but not me.
Sorry ChrisU, I thought you were Chris, my mistake I appologise.
Chris / Kiwiz The starter motor is only for when the engine is fully built to get the oil circulated around and used without plugs which is why I said before firing up. as you say the cam timing is only correct when the cover is on and to make it so the correct thickness gasket should be used, but the kawa manual does say that to check it is right to rotate twice on the crank. Bigger valves/pistons will undoubtably change this, that's why you should always look down the plug hole when doing it.
Chris / Kiwiz The starter motor is only for when the engine is fully built to get the oil circulated around and used without plugs which is why I said before firing up. as you say the cam timing is only correct when the cover is on and to make it so the correct thickness gasket should be used, but the kawa manual does say that to check it is right to rotate twice on the crank. Bigger valves/pistons will undoubtably change this, that's why you should always look down the plug hole when doing it.
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