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Engine oil
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
part synthetic
ive just put part synthetic 10-40 in my z1 done 2 or 3 miles and the site glass has misted over should I change it straight away
No, just go out and do another 30+ miles to warm the engine thoroughly and dry out the condensation within the crankcases.
With an ambient temp of around 5 deg and only running the engine for a couple of miles this would probably occur with any oil.
I now make sure that I run my bike for at least 30 - 40 miles each time I start the engine, which is also a great excuse for being out on it longer
Andy
With an ambient temp of around 5 deg and only running the engine for a couple of miles this would probably occur with any oil.
I now make sure that I run my bike for at least 30 - 40 miles each time I start the engine, which is also a great excuse for being out on it longer

Andy
- london calling
- Hardcore
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- Joined: 16th Apr 2004
- Location: Loughborough, East Midlands
subject oil
Steve I've been useing Amsoil in every thing I own since 1985 its great oil . The 20w 50 an 10w40 acually has a GL1 rateing . Go on amsoil corperate.com an look around . Look for the white paper report which is a
study that was done on several motor cycle oils like Debben spoke of .
Each of the test they did is exsplained in laymans terms . This might help
you choose a oil . If that choice is Amsoil you can register with them an
as prefered customer or dealer an buy it wholesale direct . Like one of the
guys said OIL can be a real touchy subject . If you do find yourself intersted let me an I'll sponcer you .
study that was done on several motor cycle oils like Debben spoke of .
Each of the test they did is exsplained in laymans terms . This might help
you choose a oil . If that choice is Amsoil you can register with them an
as prefered customer or dealer an buy it wholesale direct . Like one of the
guys said OIL can be a real touchy subject . If you do find yourself intersted let me an I'll sponcer you .
Interesting you say that Andy (Hi by btw) I used Kendll for a couple of years and weren't that impressed, not for hard road use any way. Found it going Grey at 1000miles so went back to GTX and 1000m changes. I know your use is different but it didn't seem to stand up.
Baza
Baza
Baza
I had the day off from school when we did inglish.
I had the day off from school when we did inglish.
- RALPHARAMA
- Area Rep.
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- Joined: 19th May 2007
- Location: Pensford, Somerset
- Contact:
We can post oil, but we have to use a parcel delivery company, Oil wieghs about 1kg per litre and so 4 litres cost the same to deliver as 8 or 12 litres, We can supply the oil filters as well ?3.50 to z10c members, carriage up to 12kg is ?8 with Amtrak
I'm just finishing a major engine rebuild inc rebore, guides et al. Do you think I should use some thing relatively cheap liek GTX and then change it after a short while say 500miles and then use some pukka stuff? The project has gotten right outta hand and funds are low. I obviously don't want to undo the effort and dosh I have put into the lump, so would appreciate some pointers.
What sort of financial sacrifice is involved with Amsoil?
Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
- toycollector10
- 100Club
- Posts: 401
- Joined: 10th Dec 2007
- Location: New Zealand
Vduk - basically warm it up and change the oil as it should have picked most of the crap up by then- you'll have to retorque the head so I do it then. Then change it again at 500. Miller is cheaper than GTX so use that at first. Mine still runs on GTX and regularly sees 9K 

Rich
diplomacy is a form of art - I was never any good at art
diplomacy is a form of art - I was never any good at art
- RALPHARAMA
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I have to say I have been mulling over the question of oil and Zeds today. When i was running similar tackle in the eighties, even as an engineering apprentice, I never wasted good beer/dope tokens on good oil. The bikes were thrashed within an inch of their lives and would have considered themselves very lucky bikes to have been fed GTX. Now i know that few bikes suffered riding styles as extreme as the punishment meated out to mine, but i doubt that manygot better maintenance than mine. These bikes are now 30+ years old and are still in remarkably good shape. Surely a good oil of the ilk of GTX can't be that bad? According to the geezer that bored by barrels the real problem tehse days is shit petrol. e maintanins that although these bikes will run on on unfredded, the lack of octane does 'em no good and i am aware myself that bike fo this era really did reply onb the upper cyclinder lubricant taht came form the lead in the petrol. Lets face it, they didn't put the stuff in cos it was free.
Sorry about the state of my typing ... i poured a generous glass full of red into the keyboard and despite a strip, wash out with iPA, dry with airline and rebuild, it isnt quite right
My research is conclusive that red fucks 'em but they come back from tea abuse OK.
Fuck that means 'll have to face the spotty oiks in Pretty Crap World in the morning to to get fucked up the arse for a new keyboard.
Sorry about the state of my typing ... i poured a generous glass full of red into the keyboard and despite a strip, wash out with iPA, dry with airline and rebuild, it isnt quite right

My research is conclusive that red fucks 'em but they come back from tea abuse OK.
Fuck that means 'll have to face the spotty oiks in Pretty Crap World in the morning to to get fucked up the arse for a new keyboard.

Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
- RALPHARAMA
- Area Rep.
- Posts: 3407
- Joined: 19th May 2007
- Location: Pensford, Somerset
- Contact:
2 glasses every night for medical purposes whether I need it or not
Last night I had an extra one for fun and then spilt another into teh old Logitech.
It has actually survived remarkably well and I now seemed to have capital 'I's again!
Have ordere a new one as quite a few keys are a tad sticky but in fairness they are mostly freeing up as the day has gone. Logitech kit really is very well made. I have had this keyboard for years and I have stripped and rebuilt it from tea drownings on many occassions
' guess I am a clumsey t**t 

Last night I had an extra one for fun and then spilt another into teh old Logitech.
It has actually survived remarkably well and I now seemed to have capital 'I's again!
Have ordere a new one as quite a few keys are a tad sticky but in fairness they are mostly freeing up as the day has gone. Logitech kit really is very well made. I have had this keyboard for years and I have stripped and rebuilt it from tea drownings on many occassions


Ralph Ferrand
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
Z1000A1 (1977), Z1300A5 (1983), Z900A4 (1976) GPZ1100 Unitrak (1983)(project), RD250B (1975)(project), ZRX1200R (2005) DT175MX (1981) YZF R6 (1999)
http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk
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