Hi, looking around for new genuine valves for a standard 1977 z1000A1.
I'd also be interested in hearing comments/suggestions/advice for cheaper aftermarket ones (eg vesrah), just in case.
I'm a bit puzzled about part numbers -
Kawasaki.com gives exhaust as 12005-009, inlet as 12004-017.
Cmsnl gives exhaust as 12004-1010, inlet as 12005-1009. I think the cmsnl numbers are correct. Can anyone confirm this?
Many thanks.
Olly
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Z1000a1 valves and part numbers
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Z1000a1 valves and part numbers
'In your twenties you think you are immortal, in your thirties you hope you are immortal, in your forties you just hope it doesn't hurt too much'
Lemmy
Lemmy
Get APE/Manley etc stainless valves, best value for money.
The do std sizes and o/s.
They are stronger and cheaper than OEM, better quality and personally I have found that the pattern ones are shite with many out of spec (collet groove to high/low etc)
Also if you bend a stainless one you can straighten it as they are one piece but the oem have friction welded heads which can fracture and drop off.
Also your differing part numbers may denote the difference between the early square collet groove and the later round.
The do std sizes and o/s.
They are stronger and cheaper than OEM, better quality and personally I have found that the pattern ones are shite with many out of spec (collet groove to high/low etc)
Also if you bend a stainless one you can straighten it as they are one piece but the oem have friction welded heads which can fracture and drop off.
Also your differing part numbers may denote the difference between the early square collet groove and the later round.
zed1015 wrote:Get APE/Manley etc stainless valves, best value for money.
The do std sizes and o/s.
They are stronger and cheaper than OEM, better quality and personally I have found that the pattern ones are shite with many out of spec (collet groove to high/low etc)
Also if you bend a stainless one you can straighten it as they are one piece but the oem have friction welded heads which can fracture and drop off.
Also your differing part numbers may denote the difference between the early square collet groove and the later round.
Thanks, that's a good suggestion - I see a uk specialist can supply kibblethwaite valves for £25 each - Would you recommend these? If not, could you recommend a good supplier of APE valves?
Would there be anything I'd need to know about installing stainless valves that's different to 'normal' - like a specific lapping process or something?
Thanks for your help.
Olly
'In your twenties you think you are immortal, in your thirties you hope you are immortal, in your forties you just hope it doesn't hurt too much'
Lemmy
Lemmy
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