Hi,
I am reassembling the Z after a rebore for a Wiseco kit. Can anyone advise:
1) there are two compression rings in the wiseco kit but it doesnt say which is the upper. I assume the chrome (silverish) one; Is that correct?
2) is there any trick to putting in the gudgeon clips. These seemed difficult to remove and flew around the workshop. I want to avoid losing the new ones whilst putting them in; Any ideas?
3) the J seems to have 4 18.5MM O rings on the corner studs between head and barrels. Can I just use any replacement O rings of correct diameter and section or do I need the genuine part 92055 1148? The originals seemed to have a squarish section but unsure whether this just the effect of compression and heat on an original circular section.
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Top end reassembly - Reassmbling Z1000J after rebore.
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- london calling
- Hardcore
- Posts: 3992
- Joined: 16th Apr 2004
- Location: Loughborough, East Midlands
To prevent the clips entering the motor,fill the crankcase mouth for each cylinder with clean rag,cloth,etc or seal across with masking tape.
Speak to Steve Debben for Wiseco/o ring info,there is a link to their website in the links section.
My engine builder insisted on a 1 piece copper head gasket on my 1170 motor,instead of the 2 piece item supplied with the piston kit.
(Edited by london calling at 6:10 am on Sep. 24, 2006)
Speak to Steve Debben for Wiseco/o ring info,there is a link to their website in the links section.
My engine builder insisted on a 1 piece copper head gasket on my 1170 motor,instead of the 2 piece item supplied with the piston kit.
(Edited by london calling at 6:10 am on Sep. 24, 2006)
The original rubber rings at the corners are square section, and are available from Debben's, and I would think from ZPower Oz, and anywhere else decent for Zed parts too I'm sure - they're cheap as chips so I wouldn't bother with alternatives.
Just be careful with the clips - as Jack says for sure stuff the crankscase mouths with a cloth. If you're really worried about them flying away you could try sticking them to a piece of clear sellotape and push them into place with the tape covering the hole, then push your small screwdiver or whatever through the tape to clip them right in.If they slip whatever's of the tape should stop them shooting back out. Haven't ever tried this but it sounds like a plan.
Just be careful with the clips - as Jack says for sure stuff the crankscase mouths with a cloth. If you're really worried about them flying away you could try sticking them to a piece of clear sellotape and push them into place with the tape covering the hole, then push your small screwdiver or whatever through the tape to clip them right in.If they slip whatever's of the tape should stop them shooting back out. Haven't ever tried this but it sounds like a plan.
When i rebuilt the Z1-R motor,i taped up crank case openings,oiled G.pin before inserting pin.Whilst fitting clips i located one end in the groove then half way along pressed clip in and "feeding" it in the groove, with thumb and summat thin like an electrical terminal screw driver (worn/blunt)I admit they go in easier. Apply oil to bores and pistons prior to assembly.
- big green bus
- Custard Cream
- Posts: 962
- Joined: 2nd Apr 2006
- Location: durham
If you really want to slide gudgeon pins in easily, warm the piston in a pan of hot engine oil. Although I've always found them fairly easy to slide in, start them off off the bike, but remember the clip is easier to put in from the outside.
There is also a school of thought that says you get a better bed in of the rings if you don't oil them on assembly or oil them with something like WD40. Please note I have not tried this yet.
There is also a school of thought that says you get a better bed in of the rings if you don't oil them on assembly or oil them with something like WD40. Please note I have not tried this yet.
Hello KiwiZ, Do Not Use the O rings in the corner, the openings in the Cometic head gasket supplied with the Wiseco piston kit will not accomadate them, if you try to fit the Cometic gasket with the original O rings it will leak, same goes for the cam tunnel O ring if you are using the better 1 piece head gasket, torque the head to 34ftlb after the first time the engine has been run, then retorque it again after the first ride, alwyas torque the head down with the engine cold, the CFM20 compund gaskets will seal far better than the copper gaskets if it is a street bike, Once the cfm20 gasket is sealed it should stay leak free for years, Steve
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