z1000 frame bracing

[Kev1R]

To me it sounds the effort / cost / reward equation is simply not worth it.
Especially for what is aiming to be a standard ish bike.

A Z1000 with taper bearings and modern tyres goes pretty good.
For normal road riding I doubt you will notice the extra bracing.
Z1000 frames are slightly upgraded from the early 900's anyway.

Let's face it - if you want a bike that really handles you wouldn't start with a 70's Z!

If you are going racing that would alter the equation....

[Taffus]

To me it sounds the effort / cost / reward equation is simply not worth it.
Especially for what is aiming to be a standard ish bike.

A Z1000 with taper bearings and modern tyres goes pretty good.
For normal road riding I doubt you will notice the extra bracing.
Z1000 frames are slightly upgraded from the early 900's anyway.

Let's face it - if you want a bike that really handles you wouldn't start with a 70's Z!

If you are going racing that would alter the equation....

But it looks trick!

[Pigford]

For performance, be better cutting off some big chunks of the frame - save weight

[Ginger Bear]

I have a spare z1100 frame with no headstock I am just about to scrap.

If you want it to chop up for frame tube youre welcome to it.

This is probably your best way forward.

Google image 'Z1000 frame bracing' and you'll get a good idea of what to put where.

www.google.co.uk/search?q=Z1000+frame+b ... 20&bih=955

[Mr Bump]

To me it sounds the effort / cost / reward equation is simply not worth it.
Especially for what is aiming to be a standard ish bike.

A Z1000 with taper bearings and modern tyres goes pretty good.
For normal road riding I doubt you will notice the extra bracing.
Z1000 frames are slightly upgraded from the early 900's anyway.

Let's face it - if you want a bike that really handles you wouldn't start with a 70's Z!

If you are going racing that would alter the equation....

Fair point, I'm still in two minds about it. The bike isn't going to be 100% original, as the tinkerer in me can't help 'improving' the engineering a bit, and I like making things look 'stock' rather than 'bling'.

Its getting taper races as you say, electronic ignition and a solid state reg/rectifier. These are all nut and bolt mods though, not welding the frame, which is a bit more irrevocable.

The idea came when I first took the tank off it and thought 'wheres all the metal gone?'. It just looks unfinished!

It's a pity that i've never ridden the bike, so don't have anything to refer to as a start point, if i did it I'd just have to assume I'd made it better.

On my 1100 B2 (which has a beefier frame, though more power too I guess) I definately did feel the limits of the handling before I slowly improved it by trial and error, so l can't quite see how the A1 will be a lot better as stock.

As its getting stripped and painted anyway, doing a discrete one off bracing job isn't a lot of work really, depending on how far one goes, a day and a half or so of metal work I reckon.

Thanks for yr thoughts,

Olly

[Mr Bump]

I have a spare z1100 frame with no headstock I am just about to scrap.

If you want it to chop up for frame tube youre welcome to it.

Thanks for the kind offer, I think I'll pass on it as its a long way to ship a scrap frame.

Seeing as the headstock is already cut out, is there any chance that you can measure the wall thickness of the cut spine and downtubes please? It'd be handy to know.

Thanks.

Olly

[Ginger Bear]

This is worth a read;

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... ht=bracing

[Mr Bump]

Hi,

To wrap this thread up for those who might happen across it while searching: I didn't go for bracing the frame in the end. I had a good read around and concluded that as its a quite original bike without a tuned motor it's a bit pointless and may well just devalue the bike.

If I feel that it's inadequate when I get it on the road I might try some bolt on bits. An aluminium box section swing arm made from a unitrack swinger and a fork brace worked wonders on my 1100b2 and they can be taken off again, so that's probably where I'd go.

Cheers

Olly

[Garn 1]

Good decision MrBump, I was going to advise that I agree with with KevZ1r and that I would concentrate on the swing-arm. Your further mention of the fork brace all sound the "goods"
Quick advice for handling besides taper roller head-stock, swing-arm and fork brace~ Always ensure all engine mounting bolts are tight, particularly the lower mounting bolt, near lower rear kick-start position.
RegardZ.