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Hot starting - Its a H****a but

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BShaw
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#1 PostAuthor: BShaw » Thu Sep 28, 2006 11:31 am

The problem is with a VF1000F11 that i sold to a mate of mine a couple of years ago. It sometimes don't start when it has done a few miles. its fine from cold even after a few weeks but sometimes won't go after maybee five or ten miles. If its left for a while its then ok. it seems like the battery has gone flat but then without a recharge it is ok.
The problem happened to me a few times and I couldnt work it out I checked earths etc but it sounds like it has got worse for him.
Any ideas.
Baza


(Edited by BShaw at 12:34 pm on Sep. 28, 2006)

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rickman CRR
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#2 PostAuthor: rickman CRR » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:00 pm

Hi Baz. I'm not an expert but this suggests there might be a problem with the choke system and its still drawing too much fuel when warm. Maybe the choke is permanently closed, (broken cable?) or shut off seals missing or disintegrated when open. Looks like a bag of worms to work on after those panels and tank are removed.

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BShaw
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#3 PostAuthor: BShaw » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:47 pm

I had not even given that a thought it is cable choke that seems to work ok it don't run rich and only happens when the bike has been turned off for a short while and then only about every 10th time. its weird. and as you say,It is a right pig to work on as well it took me about an hour to get the front two plugs out when i had it!!
Regards
Baza

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Big John
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#4 PostAuthor: Big John » Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:34 pm

Could it be fuel vapourising with the heat.

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Davy Doherty
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#5 PostAuthor: Davy Doherty » Thu Sep 28, 2006 4:49 pm

Barry, There's an easy fix for this problem coz it's a H****a Sunny jim firelighters, and a box of Bo peep matches!!

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#6 PostAuthor: Rich » Thu Sep 28, 2006 5:59 pm

If it starts easy from cold and yet when it's hot doesn't like to turn over as if the battery is flat - I'll put money on the starter motor insulation being knackered. Warm it up so it won't start and check the resistances through the starter to ground, also check the voltage drop when pressing the starter button. V maxes do the same, of course as it's a H****a it isn't user servicable and you'll have to chuck it in the bin and buy another!

Iain marshall
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#7 PostAuthor: Iain marshall » Thu Sep 28, 2006 6:07 pm

had a similar problem with the Spectre,when it was hot the starter turned very slow as if the battery was flat,as Rich says it was down to the starter insulation,fitted a H****a one and away it went :)

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BShaw
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#8 PostAuthor: BShaw » Fri Sep 29, 2006 8:45 pm

Cheers lads have passed your info on as I have no garage at the mo I won't be getting my hands on it but hopefully have pointed him in the right direction.
Thanks again
Baza

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BShaw
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#9 PostAuthor: BShaw » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:23 pm

as I am poo with electrical things whereabouts should he test the starter by that I mean where should he place the + & - side of the meter when measuring the resistance also how much voltage drop would you expect lots or a little.
Thanks again
Baza


(Edited by BShaw at 10:24 pm on Sep. 29, 2006)

Iain marshall
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#10 PostAuthor: Iain marshall » Fri Sep 29, 2006 9:33 pm

[img]https://www.ecom.H****a
-eu.com/gma10/EMM/rel/sm/UL004481/html/S2MCW000A0000NFS2MCW000B0000L5[/img]
tried to cut and paste from H****a
site but it wont cause this site does this to H****a
even on the bloody URL
I would check battery voltage 12.5v+ with nothing on,then check it again while turning engine over on the starter, will drop down poss just below 10v with starter turning,then should recover to near battery voltage reading you took if not its past its best,thats just a quick test on condition of battery.To test starter i usualy take it off engine,strip it check brushes,the end bush and front bearing if there worn the armature can short on to outer casing,then i check armature as follows
Image
above pic,check for continuity,with mulitmeter on ohms setting, between pairs of commutator bars,there should be no continuity
Image
then check for continuity between each commutator bar and the armature shaft,there should be no continuity,hope its of some help




(Edited by Iain marshall at 11:38 pm on Sep. 29, 2006)


(Edited by Iain marshall at 12:24 am on Sep. 30, 2006)

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BShaw
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#11 PostAuthor: BShaw » Fri Sep 29, 2006 11:32 pm

cheers Iain can't see your pictures on works pc and still dont have my own but will try tomorrow to have a look on another one. I am at work sat night so can have a better look then. have you an ad for the H****a site and what section its in. saying that I have a H****a common service manual I suppose it should be in that.
Cheers again mate I have bike parts and tools spread all over the SE and no proper access to any of it. I dont even know where my ws manuals are.
Baza

Iain marshall
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#12 PostAuthor: Iain marshall » Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:00 am

Baza the site i use is the H****a Europe site for dealers only so cant give out passwords,if i did i think they might get a bit upset:),cheers

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#13 PostAuthor: Iain marshall » Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:00 am

Baza the site i use is the H****a Europe site for dealers only so cant give out passwords,if i did i think they might get a bit upset:),cheers

Rich
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#14 PostAuthor: Rich » Sat Sep 30, 2006 4:16 pm

Battery +ve to earth, soleniod output to earth, starter motor input to earth. You will probably find the volts goes down to 6 to 8V when you press the starter button when it's hot. As it happens when it's hot you need to test it then. You will also need to check the case windings as well as the commutator windings. Note that if the insulation is breaking down it may still give the correct continuity reading as what happens is the wires short together passing current but not creating the magnetic field, which means that when you press the starter botton you are just earthing the battery. Also check the resistance between the starter cable back to battery earth and the earth route between the brush plate and starter casing.

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#15 PostAuthor: Iain marshall » Sat Sep 30, 2006 4:43 pm

Hi Rich i thought the case on most of the bike starter just held the magnets?


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