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Wired George Mod HELPPPPPPPPPPPP
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
I have had a lot of problems with my A4 since it was rebuilt in April this year with it 'farting' about on tick over and generally being a pain when coming off low or closed throttle.
Black sooty pugs etc. However, after months of stripping the carbs apart, cleaning, checking the float levels endlessly, changing plugs I chanced upon the fact that the main 20A fuse had a high resistance on one side of the contacts which meant that I only had 8.5V at the coils. Cleaned the fuse contact and problem solved. However, the volts were still a bit low, 10.3V with engine not running and 10.8V running at tickover and around 11.3V with the engine reved.
So I decided to undertake the Wired George Mod, which I have now done. I have a Dyna electronic ignition kit fitted on which I had the Red power lead also connected to the same coil feed. Following the mod I now get the full battery volts directly to the coil and Dyna without the engine running.
However, I do now have a concern? Without the mod whilst the coil/Dyna voltages were a bit low a low revs the bike ran OK. With the mod the power to both are now via an electro mechanical device in the form of the relay and it's contacts whereas before the coils and Dyna were directly wired. Has anybody who has undertaken this mod ever had any problems with the relay failing or with the relay contacts?
Black sooty pugs etc. However, after months of stripping the carbs apart, cleaning, checking the float levels endlessly, changing plugs I chanced upon the fact that the main 20A fuse had a high resistance on one side of the contacts which meant that I only had 8.5V at the coils. Cleaned the fuse contact and problem solved. However, the volts were still a bit low, 10.3V with engine not running and 10.8V running at tickover and around 11.3V with the engine reved.
So I decided to undertake the Wired George Mod, which I have now done. I have a Dyna electronic ignition kit fitted on which I had the Red power lead also connected to the same coil feed. Following the mod I now get the full battery volts directly to the coil and Dyna without the engine running.
However, I do now have a concern? Without the mod whilst the coil/Dyna voltages were a bit low a low revs the bike ran OK. With the mod the power to both are now via an electro mechanical device in the form of the relay and it's contacts whereas before the coils and Dyna were directly wired. Has anybody who has undertaken this mod ever had any problems with the relay failing or with the relay contacts?
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- Hardcore
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: West Sussex/Central London
Pigford wrote:Just carry a spare relay if you're worried..... there was also a thing about a diode to reduce "relay voltage spike" - but not 100% necessary
Relays are available from Ebay etc complete with a FLYBACK diode to give protection to the relay, they are not expensive but take care when connecting the coil wires as they are polarity conscious and the diode will be destroyed if connected arse backwards.
For more info Google flyback diode.
Regards
Steve
Thanks for the replies. Do intend to carry a spare relay.
Also I made up a separate loom with st 3.9 mm connectors between the relay wires so that I can just join up the two wires that feed the power to the coils, Y/R, and totally by-pass the relay if necessary.
Will look into a relay with a Flyback diode, but just wanted to get some feedback as to how reliable the mod is.
Also I made up a separate loom with st 3.9 mm connectors between the relay wires so that I can just join up the two wires that feed the power to the coils, Y/R, and totally by-pass the relay if necessary.
Will look into a relay with a Flyback diode, but just wanted to get some feedback as to how reliable the mod is.
sprint wrote:Thanks for the replies. Do intend to carry a spare relay.
Also I made up a separate loom with st 3.9 mm connectors between the relay wires so that I can just join up the two wires that feed the power to the coils, Y/R, and totally by-pass the relay if necessary.
Will look into a relay with a Flyback diode, but just wanted to get some feedback as to how reliable the mod is.
Answer is - just as reliable as the rest of the Zed electrics (if a half decent relay is used)

And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
sprint wrote:Thanks for the replies. Do intend to carry a spare relay.
Also I made up a separate loom with st 3.9 mm connectors between the relay wires so that I can just join up the two wires that feed the power to the coils, Y/R, and totally by-pass the relay if necessary.
Will look into a relay with a Flyback diode, but just wanted to get some feedback as to how reliable the mod is.
Made up relay loom and subsequent fitting.


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- Hardcore
- Posts: 1317
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: West Sussex/Central London
z1bman wrote:just needs the main harness routing behind the frame tube instead of on the outside
I looked to do that when I re-assembled the bike, but found that it was not possible to fit the airbox in that position?
Looked at some pictures in the Z900/1000 workshop manuals I have and they all showed the harness on the outside as I have done mine?

Last edited by sprint on Fri Sep 11, 2015 7:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
wilsonsjw11 wrote:Sprint,
That's a tidy location for the relay and easily accessible.
Regards
Steve
Thanks.
It is a good/easy place as long as you do not have the original rectifier, as in my case.
I replaced the original separate rectifier and regulator with a Wassell combined unit onto which I grafted a std Green plug kindly donated by Hobbo.
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- Custard Cream
- Posts: 601
- Joined: 11th Sep 2012
- Location: Reading
PAULJAC47 wrote:http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
This gives you AWG to mm2
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/wire/awg-to-mm.htm
Cheers,
Mark.
Mark.
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