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Re-building top end
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Re-building top end
I will be putting the barrel and head back on my Z900A4 soon and would appreciate some advise.
1. Do you put the base gasket on totally dry or use some Wellseal or similar? Do you need to use any Bond around the oil ways or studs?
2. Similarly do you put the head gaskets on dry or use some other sealing medium as well? Do you need to use any Bond around the oil ways? Is the cam tunnel O-ring put on dry or should some Bond be used?
Gaskets supplied by Z-Power, so should be good.
3. Best way to get the barrels on? I don't have any clamps so it it possible to get the barrels on without them or does the lead on the bottom of the bores allow the pistons and rings to easily slide in? How do you support the pistons to keep them upright and do you try to get all four pistons in at the same time or do two at a time?
1. Do you put the base gasket on totally dry or use some Wellseal or similar? Do you need to use any Bond around the oil ways or studs?
2. Similarly do you put the head gaskets on dry or use some other sealing medium as well? Do you need to use any Bond around the oil ways? Is the cam tunnel O-ring put on dry or should some Bond be used?
Gaskets supplied by Z-Power, so should be good.
3. Best way to get the barrels on? I don't have any clamps so it it possible to get the barrels on without them or does the lead on the bottom of the bores allow the pistons and rings to easily slide in? How do you support the pistons to keep them upright and do you try to get all four pistons in at the same time or do two at a time?
I normally grease the base gasket both sides
Grease should hold the tunnel gasket in place. If not the a bit of black silicone will
I use two fork shaped bits of MDF to hold middle Pistons straight
Will post a picture later
Grease should hold the tunnel gasket in place. If not the a bit of black silicone will
I use two fork shaped bits of MDF to hold middle Pistons straight
Will post a picture later
Last edited by chrisu on Thu Apr 23, 2015 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Ginger Bear
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- Ginger Bear
- Hardcore
- Posts: 6850
- Joined: 16th Dec 2008
- Location: In the Dark.
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you can buy piston ring clamps cheap enough,I used two of these,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Motorc ... 56665c732f
I do two pistons at a time,they do not slip in easy without something compressing the rings
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Motorc ... 56665c732f
I do two pistons at a time,they do not slip in easy without something compressing the rings
A 3" drain pipe is very nearly the same size as the piston. So have cut off some lengths about 15mm wide and with a cut down the side and a cable tie it compresses the rings OK.
Have done a dummy run with a piston and barrel on the bench and it sides in nicely, as they say.
Just got to decide if I do a couple at a time or try to get all four in one go?
Have done a dummy run with a piston and barrel on the bench and it sides in nicely, as they say.
Just got to decide if I do a couple at a time or try to get all four in one go?
This is one of those jobs that's done in a few minutes or takes forever
I tried a number of ways
pot noodle tops...didn't work for me though has worked for others
Drain pipe.....nope
I then bought 2 of These
These worked a treat, I was fitting 1170 so the chamfers at the botton of the liners were pretty non existent
I did the inner pistons at tdc then turned the engine so the outers rose and then did them.
I got to do it twice as I left the bloody cam tensioner blade out......DOH!
I tried a number of ways
pot noodle tops...didn't work for me though has worked for others
Drain pipe.....nope
I then bought 2 of These
These worked a treat, I was fitting 1170 so the chamfers at the botton of the liners were pretty non existent
I did the inner pistons at tdc then turned the engine so the outers rose and then did them.
I got to do it twice as I left the bloody cam tensioner blade out......DOH!
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- Ginger Bear
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