B2 meltdown woes

[Richard L]

Hello All,
After it's winter break took the Gpz out in the lovely spring sunshine and after a nice blast it would not fire back up battery had flattened itself. A quick investigation found melted block connector to reg/rec , and only continuity between 2 of the 3 yellow alternator wires, one of the windings had broken.



Had a spare alternator (untested) with continuity between all 3 wires and a B1 reg/rec which I have fitted, block connector and cables replaced, wiring checked ,terminals cleaned.
Now with a multimeter across the battery terminals still only getting battery voltage at 4000rpm

Electrics are not my thing and I would be grateful for a few simple tips ( and I mean simple ! ) to check what I have . The factory manual has tests for the reg/rec but that goes straight over my head .

Any help would be appreciated and any ideas what went wrong and in what order it happened and is this common ?

Richard

[Al]

Cant help with electrics sorry but the same thing happened to me six weeks ago after fitting a new alternator and a new reg/rec.
The wiring at that plug and socket got hot enough to melt the insulation and make magic smoke.
Pulled the pair apart and removed all the male and female connectors.
Some looked a little less than perfect so crimped them again to be sure.
No change.
Soldered any marginal connectors.
No change.
In the end i soldered all the connectors including all the brand new ones and so far have had no other problems with it.
I dont think that my old alternator was putting out half the wattage of the new one.
Now getting 14 Volts plus,... at 1500RPM at the battery and no heating up of the socket.

AL

[z1bman]

disconnect the the three yellow wires coming from the alternator & check the voltage between the yellow wires. put one tester lead on one yellow wire & the other tester lead on the other you should have at least 50 volts ac at 4000 rpm. also check they have not shorted to earth . is the stator in good condition? no broken magnets & the stator has got magnetism? check the white wire with red stripe from the regulator for voltage you should have battery voltage? turn on the ignition & check the voltage at the brown wire at the regulator again it should read battery voltage. check the black with yellow trace wire at the regulator this is earth & should show continuity to any eath point on the bike = engine or battery negative

[Richard L]

Thanks both of you for your input , I will give it a go at the weekend and let you know what I find. Typical that the bike breaks just as the sun comes out ! Have to take the H...a out instead !
Richard

[Richard L]

Its me again,
Done the tests.
Only getting 50v ac on 2 out of the three yellow wires
Earth check yellow cables all showing no continuity
Red white 12.33v dc
Brown 12.28v dc
Black yellow earth continuity
I guess this means new alternator !
Anyone any recommendations?
Maybe reg/rec is still ok?
Thank you Mr Z1B MAN what would we all do without your assistance?
Have a great weekend everyone
Richard

[z1bman]

yes with those readings your stator is duff & requires a replacement. as for the regulator the voltage looks ok there is a more complex test in the manual but it would be over the head of someone not familiar with electrics. you have to replace the stator anyway so i would leave the regulator at the moment


http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/G03.html


you will probably require these

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/p ... tors-6-3mm

[Al]

Bought my alternator and reg/rec from Electrex world.
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/
Very good quality very good price too.
G3 Alternator
RR14 Reg / rec.

After putting in the alternator i thought i'd have lookey at the starter.
Found it had no brushes at all!
Too late for postage and had to make a second order
SMBK25 Brush Kit.

This is for the J1 and it has a four brush starter.

AL

[Richard L]

Ok , thank you both again
Cheers
Richard

[Gavin]

The connector looks like my Z1300 when the stator packed up.
Bought a new one and everything is ok now.