Cam Cover Gasket

[jacobmarley]

Thanks for the advise on the cam cover gasket to all who posted. I have done the job with a new gasket and a smear of Kawa Gasket on each face, valves shimmed and bike now running fine. I do have one concern, the Clymer manual specifies 12 Ft Lb torque for the cam cover bolts, this seems excessive and felt a bit excessive when doing it. Its a 6 mm bolt into Alu head, can anyone give me any advice as I tentatively tightened them to 10 Ft Lbs - Regards Jacobmarley

[floydsz1]

Hi, dont tighten to what it says in the manual, its a miss print, lots off people have come unstuck with it, cant remember exactly what it should be but someone will say.

[floydsz1]

I have all the settings in a note book a mate gave me a few years ago, he's a top motorcycle mechanic so i always go by that, i seem to remember the cam cap bolt torque figures were wrong in some manuals,it should be ft ins not ft lb or something simular.

[Pasc]

When it comes to cam cover and cam cap bolts it seems that the torque settings are a bit too low for most but the smallest of torque wrenches to be accurate (usually stripping the threads before the torque wrench clicks).
I tend to use a SHORT 10mm spanner to nip them up, pulling on the very end of the spanner with no more than a couple of fingers. This way you will find that whilst you may not nip them up to the exact manual torque setting you will get them all fairly even and close to torque without stripping them. I did have an engineer once explain the maths of a couple of fingers / length of spanner = such and such lb/ft but it was a long time ago. Hopefully someone with more up to date engineering maths might be able to explain it better.

[chrisNI]

For any 6mm bolt around 6ft/lb should be plenty. The one that really fucks people up - including me one time - is the factory manuals' misprint of 12ft/lb for 6mm cam cap bolts.

[floydsz1]

I agree with pasc, for things like covers i tend to just use a spanner, after working on engines for a while you get a feel for what is right, though its different obviously for load bearing parts such as big end bolts, cam cap bolts etc.

[Steve S]

re-check the torque on the cover bolts after a few runs out as the gasket tends to compress and settle,you may find you need to nip them up again,but as others advise dont over do it.
Glad you are all sorted.

[jacobmarley]

For any 6mm bolt around 6ft/lb should be plenty. The one that really fucks people up - including me one time - is the factory manuals' misprint of 12ft/lb for 6mm cam cap bolts.

ChrisNI I think it may have F....F.... Flumaxed me as well. - Jacobmarley

[scott]

I've been wondering why i had to helicoil a previously damaged thread under the cam cap....a misprint....does anyone know if there any other misprints(only concerned with engine componants) in the z1000a2 manual?

Scott

[jacobmarley]

I've been wondering why i had to helicoil a previously damaged thread under the cam cap....a misprint....does anyone know if there any other misprints(only concerned with engine componants) in the z1000a2 manual?

Scott

Scott what torque did you tighten the cam bearing caps to, it says 12 ft lb in manual. I am worried that I have overtightened and that as the engine expands when hot, over time bolts will become loose. Has anyone any experience of this. _Pete

[scott]

hi jacbmarley,
unfortunately i have done them up to what the manual states......fortunately i have only just rebiult the engine and have only briefly fired it up(can't do much until i've sorted my carb issues out)...i'll have to loosen them up and set to correct torque...i can't leave them at the higher torque level can i....overstressing the thread on the ally side??

While i'm at it ...the new half moon pieces at the top of the cam cover are weeping....can i use a bit of gasket sealant such Hylomar pl32??

Scott

[jacobmarley]

There is an article on the KZ1000 Owners (KZrider.com)site about valve shims and this advises torque levels of 12 ft lbs for cam bearing caps, wish I new a definitive answer.
I was told once that Japanese manufacturers used higher torque levels than others as they extensively used rolled threads instead of cut, this meant friction in thread was greater, therefore higher torques were o.k. - anyone know about this ?
As for the half moons I don't have any experience of this.

[Pigford]

Why not use locktite on the threads, and just nip 'em by hand.....
The cam cap ends are prone to leaking... heat resistant sealant is OK. If originallity ain't a major issue, try nice alloy end moons, such as APE from Debbens, only ?20 or so U can get em in black anodised finish.

[Rich]

Rolled threads are stronger than cut threads. It has nothing to do with friction and the finished size should be the same as a cut thread (the original hole is larger for female rolled threads). It is the way the grain of the metal is deformed rather than cut into and the work hardening when rolled. It is akin to forging a piston for greater strength

[RALPHARAMA]

I have heard of rolled threads on bolts / studs, but I have never come across female rolled threads - how would they be formed?

On the topic of the cam end seals where they cut the outside of the head casting when the line bored the came bearings; I have bought new seals for mine and need to remove the old and replace them with the new 'uns I purhcased from Z-Power. is this an easy job? What would you usually glue/seal 'em in with? The seem to be well glued in at present.