Fork tool

[RALPHARAMA]

I need to strip my forks down as part of my restoration and understand that I will need a special tool. The last time I stripped a set of Kwacka forks was when I built a special many, many moons ago and I think the front end was from a GPZ 550. I vaguely remember making the special tool. I'm guessing that it will be basically either a socket or allen key welded to the end of a tee bar. Can anyone tell me which and what size
Many thanks

[Ed Z1-R]

With the Z1-R i use a broom handle which is broken at angle and tapered i tap it in hold it then undo the allen screw

[Garn 1]

With the Z1000 A1, Kawasaki changed the internal damper and it didn't allow you to use the slotted tee-tool that we used in the Z1 series/ z900 A4.
A pneumatic impact Allen hex headed driver will do the job from the bottom. As Ed-Z1R suggests, the broom handle with the tapered end will hold the damper, whilst being attacked with the impact driver, however, the broom-stick, on it's own, with just an allen key, may slip, depending on the tightness .
RegardZ.

[scott]

Hi vduk,
on my z1000a2 i used an allen key on the underside of the forks and stopped the inner from rotating by using an tapered metal bar.....the metal bar was actually a poker from a fire would you believe. If enough pressure is applied to the metal bar it won't slip.

Scott

[london calling]

If you've got access to an air gun (impact wrench) then it makes the job much easier

[Pigford]

Ralph, as I've just done my forks, the top of the damper rod has a round bit on top with a flat cut in the side. Its about 13mm dia.
I'd go for Ed's suggestion, usually works ok

[RALPHARAMA]

Thanks for the info. I have got an air impact wrench. A very flash tool which cost very little money from machine mart and makes my workshop feel like an F1 pit lane! Even more so today when I had my lappy plugged into the Jeep trying to fathom why the bastard wouldn't run on gas!

I have and eight mm 1/2" drive socket on order from Buck and Hickman for delivery tomorrow along with five galoon o Jizer.

The firked forks on my bike, which are pissing oil faster than Sadam Hussein, are obviously from the A1, but I also have a pair that are continent, but the mudguard (yes that's mudguard, not fender, I am British) lugs have been butchered, so I need to strip 'em to get one of the sliders into the milling machine for surgery. I have now realised that the fleabay forks must have been off an A2, which had the calipers behind the forks. I guess if I put them the other way around I could still have the calipers infront to sit with it being an A1 or do you guys think I should sit them behind?

Thanks for your words of wisdom

[london calling]

Calipers behind the forks should be better from a handling point of view.
Most bikes since 80's have calipers behind the fork legs.

[Garn 1]

Agree with London-Calling, there is however another advantage for rear mounting, and that is, they say it gives the steering better balance. For example, imagine if you could spin the handle bars thru 360 degrees, it would spin for longer with the calipers at rear.

You will need to re-bend or shorten your steel tubes hoses at calipers. I think also, you may need a longer speedo cable to get around the RHS caliper.

RegardZ.

[Steve R]

I have z1000 forks on my z1a with calipers at front no problems, as you say vduk it looks more standard for the year of bike, not that I really care about that!

I think the difference in handling/ steering would be pretty negligible really on a zed (maybe on an R1 ) Also I seem to have read recently that some racer always ran with calipers at front ti improve brake cooling.

Steve R