Z1000 starting problem?

becker · #1 PostAuthor: **becker** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:30 pm

Last weekend rolled out the z1000 and jump started her from the car - after a turns to get the oil round, she started easy - even had some flames out the zorst :twisted:

Tried again this weekend and nothing :evil:

Took some plugs out to look for sparks and nothing

Fitted new coils and electronic ignition a couple of years.

Any clues guys? or advice on things I should test and how to test them? alright with mechanical stuff, but vehicle electrics baffle me :oops:

Something odd I've just noticed though - when I turn the ignition off, the light still has a faint glow? if I disconnect the 2 thin wires on the positive battery terminal, it goes out. Never noticed it staying on like this before - could this be connected to my issue or a red herring?

z1bman · #2 PostAuthor: **z1bman** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 12:35 pm

check your voltage at the coils 12 volts when ignition on

martinz1000r · #3 PostAuthor: **martinz1000r** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 1:20 pm

how old is your fuel? I had the same with my GPz. Started fine then died and refused to start again. Few back fires and pops.

Drain float bowls, fresh petrol and off she went first stab of starter. That was petrol from last September when i put it away.

becker · #4 PostAuthor: **becker** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 1:31 pm

martinz1000r wrote:how old is your fuel? I had the same with my GPz. Started fine then died and refused to start again. Few back fires and pops.

Drain float bowls, fresh petrol and off she went first stab of starter. That was petrol from last September when i put it away.

Used new fuel - had carbs off over the winter, so was clean fuel throughout when started last weekend - sounds more like electrical - lack of spark?

zed1015 · #5 PostAuthor: **zed1015** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 1:52 pm

Jump starting from a car battery is a bit naughty ( Too many amps ) and can overload the wiring,electrical components and even fry bikes the own battery.
The ign light glowing sounds like you may have melted some insulation and created a short .
Look for overheated wires, especially where they are grouped together , run tight against the frame or enter a block connector (resistance).
You may need to open the harness to find the short .
Start close to the bikes battery and work outwards.

tlc · #6 PostAuthor: **tlc** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 9:08 pm

becker wrote:
Something odd I've just noticed though - when I turn the ignition off, the light still has a faint glow? if I disconnect the 2 thin wires on the positive battery terminal, it goes out. Never noticed it staying on like this before - could this be connected to my issue or a red herring?

That could well be a damaged/worn ignition switch. My one will turn on the neutral light but not always the tail light. I shall be buying another.

becker · #7 PostAuthor: **becker** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 9:25 pm

zed1015 wrote:Jump starting from a car battery is a bit naughty ( Too many amps ) and can overload the wiring,electrical components and even fry bikes the own battery.
The ign light glowing sounds like you may have melted some insulation and created a short .
Look for overheated wires, especially where they are grouped together , run tight against the frame or enter a block connector (resistance).
You may need to open the harness to find the short .
Start close to the bikes battery and work outwards.

Heard something like this before, but only if the car was started as alternator puts too much through - bike wiring should be ok if car if not started?

zed1015 · #8 PostAuthor: **zed1015** » Sat Mar 14, 2015 11:27 pm

becker wrote:
zed1015 wrote:Jump starting from a car battery is a bit naughty ( Too many amps ) and can overload the wiring,electrical components and even fry bikes the own battery.
The ign light glowing sounds like you may have melted some insulation and created a short .
Look for overheated wires, especially where they are grouped together , run tight against the frame or enter a block connector (resistance).
You may need to open the harness to find the short .
Start close to the bikes battery and work outwards.

Heard something like this before, but only if the car was started as alternator puts too much through - bike wiring should be ok if car if not started?

Ah! ok. If that's the case and the cars alt wasn't producing then it should have done no harm.
The glowing ign light in the off position still indicates a short though which is probably earthing the power to the ign.

Pigford · #9 PostAuthor: **Pigford** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:42 am

Kill switch ? :??

Tonka · #10 PostAuthor: **Tonka** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 8:46 am

Ignition switch faulty.

becker · #11 PostAuthor: **becker** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 10:18 am

Pigford wrote:Kill switch ?

Nope - checked this - its not connected :shock:

Another job to add to the list :roll:

PAULJAC47 · #12 PostAuthor: **PAULJAC47** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 11:04 am

Would guess ignition or coils have you got spares you can substitute?

tlc · #13 PostAuthor: **tlc** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 11:17 am

When you turn off at the key there is still some power getting through to the clocks.
How can this be coils or kill switch?

Kev1R · #14 PostAuthor: **Kev1R** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 11:19 am

I have a spare ignition switch from a z1000 A2
Happy to post it to you if you wanted to try it

Cheers
Kevin

becker · #15 PostAuthor: **becker** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 11:34 am

Kev1R wrote:I have a spare ignition switch from a z1000 A2
Happy to post it to you if you wanted to try it

Cheers
Kevin

Nice offer Kev, but think the switch is Ok at the moment - I'll keep this in mind though in case diagnosis changes

Have 12v at the coils with ignition on.

Did some more check this morning and beginning to suspect that the electronic ignition box of tricks is faulty.

When the ignition is off, the ignition light only glows a bit when the electronic ignition is connected to the battery

Z1000 starting problem?

Z1000 starting problem?

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