Wiring problems

[Richard Q]

When I took the bike off the road, the lights worked - now they don't

From studying the wiring diagrams (I have 2 and am not sure which one I need ) I notice that the wiring to the rearlight goes nowhere near the light switch. On both diagrams, they go directly from the ignition switch to the rearlight.

If I turn the ignition to 'park' the light comes on, so the wiring to the rear light and earthing is ok. Is it normally wired direct?

I seem to have new switchgear with the Z1 wiring, blue power wires to the lights, and A4 for the rest of the loom. The bright blue (see how new they look) wires coming out from the switchgear looms, are wired like this - this is a pic from the stripdown.


The one close to the coil is the one to the dip switch, and the one with the large connector is the live feed from the light switch (it is live with the ignition and light switch on). The smaller one goes to a blue wire of a different shade (an old wire) and the larger one goes to a blue and white wire, also an older one. The A4 wiring diagram shows a blue/white wire going to the fuse box, then back as a blue wire. These are probably the wires in question but then why doesn't it work? Yes the fuse is ok

I can just join the bright blue wires together, and the headlight works, but I still have no rear light.

The A4 wiring diagram has something that looks like a fuse just before switch but I can't find it anywhere on the bike, and cannot actually read what this thing actually is as the wording is very blurry.

Any ideas?

Richard

[Hinckley]

I had the extra blue wire, it will work OK.

The loose (as in not the 4 block connector) Blue with White stripe wire with a 4mm Female bullet terminal in plastic cover from RH Switch carries power for the headlights dip and main beam.
It connects to the Blue with White wire with a 4mm Male bullet terminal coming from the main harness and goes to the fuse box.

The other lloose solid blue with female terminal from the RH Switch is to hard wire the lights on full time for the USA - tuck this out the way and tape it off.

Solid Blue from the main harness with 4mm Female bullet terminal in plastic cover - this is the power coming back from the fusebox - it connects to LH Handlebar Switch Block Loose blue wire with 4mm Male bullet terminal (this wire is the power for the dip/main switch).

FYI - This Red/black stripe wire from the fuse box is spliced with another blue wire in the loom which goes to the idiot lights supplying power for the clock lights.
edit - wire colour corrected.

As a general rule:

Female terminal with shroud - power out.
Male terminal - power in.

[Richard Q]

Cheers Hinckley

The blue and blue/white wires were not connected to the fusebox, (I tested the resistance) and they should be. There are a few loose sockets and plugs which don't go anywhere, I assume they are for warning beepers for the indicators and other stuff which didn't make it this far.

There is a 4 pin plug under the airbox with the correct colour wires, but no socket. One corner is missing and there's tape round it. Well, I found the socket hiding behind the electric panel, and now I have all electrics working, except for the speedo lights.

I did find a intermittent front parking light but that just turned to be one of those nasty little blue scotchlok things which is now in the bin.

Richard

[Hinckley]

You can test the clock lights by powering the blue wire in the 9 pin block connector to the idiot lights - the black/yellow above it is the earth (unplug the connector and look at it terminals facing you with the cut out on the bottom - blue wire is the bottom Right - earth is above it).

If the other idiot lights work then it's not an earth fault.

The wiring for the rear side light is different - for a reason - a work around for the park lights.

The red wire from the Ign switch supplies power to the rear light (side light) - it runs straight through the harness to the tail light Harness..
The brown/white stripe wire from the RH Handlebar block connector goes to the fuse box - it emerges from the fuse box as a red/black stripe wire - this is the sidelight circuit.
The red/black stripe wire splits in the Harness into three separate wires:
Brown/white stripe - this goes to the headlamp and powers the sidelight - female 4mm bullet with cover.
Blue - goes to the 9 pin idiot light connector in the headlight - clock lighting.
Blue - goes to the Ign switch block connector this supplies power the rear light when the Ign is on - they use this set up so the ign switch powers this wire when parking light is selected it joins the white power wire to the blue one.

If you have a USA spec A4 Harness there will be the extra wiring for the hazard warning lights (extra plug by the coils (hazard switch), extra terminals by the fuse box (hazard relay and regulator)).
You may also have the extra wiring in the headlamp for the daytime running lights.

If your worried about earths - you can always add a separate earth to the top triple clamp - useful if powdercoat insulates the bars.
I ran one from the 3way earth in the headlight - just in case.

[Richard Q]

Much appreciated Hinckley

The tacho lights work but the speedo ones don't. Indicator idiot light works, oil light works, ignition light, and high beam light all work. The only electrical thing I'm missing now is the speedo lights.

I'll pull it apart later and change the bulbs first. It could just be that easy.

BTW the brown/white wire for the sidelight was spliced into the blue wire from the ignition block connector with a scotchlok thingy Gawd I hate those things. My Rover was full of the little blighters, that's how he got his name, 'Sparky.'

[Hinckley]

BTW the brown/white wire for the sidelight was spliced into the blue wire from the ignition block connector with a scotchlok thingy Gawd I hate those things. My Rover was full of the little blighters, that's how he got his name, 'Sparky.'

Nice!

I despise bodgelocks - I use non insulated crimp terminals (cutting the spade off) to join wires - then either heatshrink over where possible, or tape - I find soldering a better connection, but have had wires break at the solder join.

Good luck.