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Ignition Problem

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Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

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KeithZ1R
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#16 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:29 am

are you on points ?
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Wayne1960
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#17 PostAuthor: Wayne1960 » Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:29 am

is there a simple way to test the coil? should they get hot?
Just purchased a 1976 UK Z900 A4 for renovation. Wish me luck.
Bike now finished what a joy!

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KeithZ1R
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#18 PostAuthor: KeithZ1R » Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:31 am

They will get hot with the ignition on so try not to leave it on for prolonged periods turning the kill switch when your bot actually testing anyfin
Keith

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You can never have too many tools in your life, except the two legged variety



I'm never wrong, once I thought I was but I was

mistaken.



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Hinckley
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#19 PostAuthor: Hinckley » Fri Jan 30, 2015 11:51 am

9v to the coils is wrong - a minimum of 12v is required.

Bad coil possibly - but this would be constant - not intermittent.

Duff coils can cause the voltage to drop - but coil insulation either works or it doesn't - look out for splits in the casing, if the coils get red hot not just on the hot side of warm with the bike running then they are duff. They will get hot with the bike not running and key on - as said - not advisable for any length of time.
Old coil HT leads can break down inside causing intermittent misfires - but this will not affect the coil voltage without the bike running.

Sounds more like a bad connection.

If the 250 is wired in the same way as the big zed and has a kill switch - corrosion in the kill switch can cause intermittent resistance - enough for the switch to get quite hot to touch! - thus reducing the amps/volts to the coils.
Also the old wire can deteriorate - any discolouration of the wire is corrosion - this will cause resistance - any resistance in the actual wires would be constant (slowly deteriorating over time) and not intermittent.
Connector pins in the connector blocks can corrode and cause an intermittent poor connection - all pins should look like clean brass - any white discolouration is corrosion.
Corrosion = Resistance.

To isolate the coils for testing - Try hardwiring the live feed from the battery to the coils - but also adding a new earth from the motor directly to the battery.

If the 250 is wired the same as the big z then I can see no reason why you can't wire up a wired george mod using the original yellow/red coil feed wiring as the relay trigger.

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PAULJAC47
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#20 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Fri Jan 30, 2015 12:20 pm

Wayne1960 wrote:Man i cant believe the problems i am having with ignition. one minute everything fine and starts on the push of a button or a kick.
Now it wont start.
So frustrating .
Battery holding over 12v
Checked the timing and good.
Hard wired the coils to bypass the switch nothing.
I checked the volts at the joint where the yellow and orange cable splits off to the coils and it drops to 9v which i'm sure is wrong. if i disconnect the 2 leads from the connector the bolts go up.
Any ideas??


Start a new thread Wayne this will get lost on this one.
Volts drop is normal when devices such as coils powered,watch how your battery volts drop when you put your main beam on,though 9 volts is lowish suggests bad connection check kill switch..
Look at simple things first,if its an intermiitent fault could be a simple as bad earth or connection,are you starting the bike on choke and not taking for good run,plugs especially Ngk once fouled are fit for the bin,are you sure its electrical? fuel getting there and fresh,goes off super rapid now ,without conditioner...Copy and paste all this in a new thread....Cheers Paul J
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