I remember a mate taking the sump off his Z650 and he snapped every one bar two

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zorded wrote:A great deal more complex putting it back on as the cam cover effectively tensions the chain.
When you take it off it is extremely likely that the cam timing will slip.
Especially true if you rotate the engine to check valve clearances for example.
Dont put the cam cover back on with the auto tensioner working and in situ.
Remove the cap and cross slide or you will break the cam cover / damage the chain guide blades!
Sounds like all the valves are OK from the compression figures ~ valve clearances are another matter.
AL
Richard Q
PostPosted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 12:54 am Post subject:
zorded wrote:
A great deal more complex putting it back on as the cam cover effectively tensions the chain.
When you take it off it is extremely likely that the cam timing will slip.
Especially true if you rotate the engine to check valve clearances for example.
Dont put the cam cover back on with the auto tensioner working and in situ.
Remove the cap and cross slide or you will break the cam cover / damage the chain guide blades!
Sounds like all the valves are OK from the compression figures ~ valve clearances are another matter.
AL
I am going through a huge learning curve with motorcycle engines, having built and repaired many 70's and 80's car engines, but this I really cannot fully get my head around.
The cam cover is not exactly tight and has a thick relatively soft gasket, so how much could it contribute to the rigidity of the top of the engine?
Z1parR wrote:Don't torque them , M6 into ally would hardly register on most wrenches anyway .
Just use a short allen key and nip them up .
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