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Leaky Dynas
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Leaky Dynas
Hi Guys, haven't posted anything on here for a while as I bought a Zeph 11 and I've been just enjoying it. But now back to one of the probs I have with my CSR 1000. I turned it over last night just to see what's happening with it, kinda forgot, lol. Anyway there are sparks flying between one of the coil wires and the rubber where the HT lead goes into the coil on my Dynas. Is there any way of sealing them ? or are they knackered, thanks in advance to all replies, $
stephen g mackay
StevieG, I would look at the contact lead to coil, they are usually a pretty solid fitting. Perhaps, the end of the lead has not been crimped enough, as I recall you need a special crimping device.
I remember I purchased some leads, already crimped and with a heavy rubber cap/cover from a car parts shop. I was able to get them with a right angle bend, which was great to assist in fitting (Z1), with the spouts mounted forward.
RegardZ.
I remember I purchased some leads, already crimped and with a heavy rubber cap/cover from a car parts shop. I was able to get them with a right angle bend, which was great to assist in fitting (Z1), with the spouts mounted forward.
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4
what do you mean by contact lead ? do you mean the thin wires ? a red and a black I think. If so they screw onto the coil. The spark seems to be coming out the side of the spouts and arcing onto the live red. $Garn 1 wrote:StevieG, I would look at the contact lead to coil, they are usually a pretty solid fitting. Perhaps, the end of the lead has not been crimped enough, as I recall you need a special crimping device.
I remember I purchased some leads, already crimped and with a heavy rubber cap/cover from a car parts shop. I was able to get them with a right angle bend, which was great to assist in fitting (Z1), with the spouts mounted forward.
RegardZ.
stephen g mackay
The only place they're arcing is between the power wire and the spout where the HT lead goes. With a plug in the cap it still sparks but I know this is going to affect it. I'll double check that tomorrow Pigford, it's blowing a Hurricane out here tonight.Pigford wrote:Make sure the "low tension" (thin power leads into the coil) are not arcing on the posts holding the coils on the frameThe screws are close to the m.
stephen g mackay
Sorry Stevie, I'm referring to the high-tension lead that fits into the spout!
Pull the lead out and see if the fitting on the end is making good contact to the inner part of the coil.
As mentioned before, these are not the ordinary lead fittings and are crimped with a special crimp. Their rubber insulation is not the usual either.
Always check your regulator to see if coils are not receiving an over-voltage supply > 14Volts. Check across battery terminals at about 4.000Rpm.
As Pigford mentioned, the low tension is seriously close to the coil support and often some heat-shrink rubber is made to cover this tubular support.
RegardZ.
Pull the lead out and see if the fitting on the end is making good contact to the inner part of the coil.
As mentioned before, these are not the ordinary lead fittings and are crimped with a special crimp. Their rubber insulation is not the usual either.
Always check your regulator to see if coils are not receiving an over-voltage supply > 14Volts. Check across battery terminals at about 4.000Rpm.
As Pigford mentioned, the low tension is seriously close to the coil support and often some heat-shrink rubber is made to cover this tubular support.
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4
Sounds like the spark is tracking, it is not uncommon.
Could be due to damp or cracked/split HT lead.
The spark will always find the shortest path to earth.
Shouldn't be a big deal with a lead replacement at the very most.
Give the area a wipe dry and a squirt of WD.
If you did happen to have a cracked coil then make sure it is mounted properly with clearance between it and the frame and the crack can be sealed effectively with nail varnish or similar.
Could be due to damp or cracked/split HT lead.
The spark will always find the shortest path to earth.
Shouldn't be a big deal with a lead replacement at the very most.
Give the area a wipe dry and a squirt of WD.
If you did happen to have a cracked coil then make sure it is mounted properly with clearance between it and the frame and the crack can be sealed effectively with nail varnish or similar.
I went out tonight to have a look at the leads, they're Taylors. Pulled the offending one out of the coil, all good, stuck it back in and hey presto, no arcing. As I said previously I haven't looked at this bike for ages but I don't think this is the end of the story cos if I remember correctly the last time I was faffing about with it both coils were arcing all over the place. But at least now it's a start and thanks to you guys I can fix it with nail varnish. Thanks guys. I'll check it over the weekend and hopefully get it fired up. I'll let you know how I get on, thanks again guys, $zed1015 wrote:Sounds like the spark is tracking, it is not uncommon.
Could be due to damp or cracked/split HT lead.
The spark will always find the shortest path to earth.
Shouldn't be a big deal with a lead replacement at the very most.
Give the area a wipe dry and a squirt of WD.
If you did happen to have a cracked coil then make sure it is mounted properly with clearance between it and the frame and the crack can be sealed effectively with nail varnish or similar.
stephen g mackay
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