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Stainless bolts

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jimmock
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#16 PostAuthor: jimmock » Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:39 pm

steve bowdler wrote:I am sure the Alloy fork legs would be weaker than the stainless axles :roll:


Certain stainless grades will fracture "without warning".
Jimmock. :wnkr


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#17 PostAuthor: jimmock » Tue Jan 14, 2014 10:45 pm

z1000puddin wrote:Jim,
The 17-4 stainless I used is a B***D to machine - it wrecks cutting tips.
But is very very strong.
We use this materials in a all of our Umbilical sheave shafts & swivel heads.

http://www.specialtysteelsupply.com/bro ... l-data.pdf


Stu,

Very impressive reading indeed.

However I failed to read anything in the well presented brochure about Kawasaki wheel spindles???

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PETER KZ1A
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#18 PostAuthor: PETER KZ1A » Wed Feb 12, 2014 11:37 am

Stainless is not suitable in "structural" applications
Especially 120 mph applications
But it does look pretty

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steve bowdler
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#19 PostAuthor: steve bowdler » Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:56 pm


Paul Mc
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#20 PostAuthor: Paul Mc » Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:31 pm

I used this company a few months ago for various bolts. It was for a Norton, but they were very helpful with a quick service.
I got the impression they could do bespoke stuff.
Stainless classics Will Horgan
Http://www.stainlessclassics.com
Email stainlesshorgan@yahoo.co.uk
Phone 020 8751 1931

Paul Mc

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#21 PostAuthor: RALPHARAMA » Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:01 pm

I made a font wheel spindle for my Shafter in 316 Marine grade stainless.

The austenitic stainless steels are all going to be weaker in terms of shear force resistance than some of the other steels. The only reason to use stainless for a wheel spindle is for it's non-corrosive properties, and given that, I would either use 316 of use another steel that has better shear strength and then zinc, nickle or chrome plate as was done originally.

Touch wood, the none of the 316 spindles I have made have ever let go. I would advice against 303 as whilst this is an austenitic stainless it is the free cutting variety with extra sulphur which reduces not only it's strength but also the anti-corrosive properties. Slong as you use good cutting tools 316 machines quite nicely in my experience. 304 is similar but not a resistant to corrosion and is not as strong.

Basically 316 is the dogs' but it is a fair bit dearer, but IMHO worth it :)
Ralph Ferrand
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#22 PostAuthor: malmojoe » Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:33 pm

aren't spindles forged? As I recall from materials science, forging will be much stronger than a machined spindle, something to do with grain boundaries and granular alignment. If there is a chance of it shearing, the anti corrosion is not worth the worry it would give at speed imo. Better to feel confident in your bike.


from a web page I found just now:

Forged Bar:
Directional alignment through the forging process has been deliberately oriented in a direction requiring maximum strength. This also yields ductility and resistance to impact and fatigue.
Image




Machined Bar:
Unidirectional grain flow has been cut when changing contour, exposing grain ends. This renders the material more liable to fatigue and more sensitive to stress corrosion cracking.
Image

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#23 PostAuthor: neilbarrett » Sat Feb 15, 2014 5:29 pm

ive used harris for some spindles in the past ,one offs ,very helpful and took about a wk

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#24 PostAuthor: jimmock » Sat Feb 15, 2014 6:19 pm

malmojoe wrote:aren't spindles forged? As I recall from materials science, forging will be much stronger than a machined spindle, something to do with grain boundaries and granular alignment. If there is a chance of it shearing, the anti corrosion is not worth the worry it would give at speed imo. Better to feel confident in your bike.


from a web page I found just now:

Forged Bar:
Directional alignment through the forging process has been deliberately oriented in a direction requiring maximum strength. This also yields ductility and resistance to impact and fatigue.
Image




Machined Bar:
Unidirectional grain flow has been cut when changing contour, exposing grain ends. This renders the material more liable to fatigue and more sensitive to stress corrosion cracking.
Image


Impressive stuff indeed.

I don't know much about a forged bar or a machined bar.

But I was once in a gay bar.
Jimmock. :wnkr





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gordon62
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#25 PostAuthor: gordon62 » Sun Feb 16, 2014 9:13 am

interesting subject, I had a rear wheel spindle made for my Suzuki T350R, mainly because the original is chrome plated, and I had it rechromed, problem was the chrome was not thick enough when done, as it was a touch loose in the bearing, so I know a guy from e-bay who makes stuff in stainless in small amounts and sell on e-bay, nice stuff, I had"nt though about the grade, so I have just sent an email off to ask him..

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Garn 1
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#26 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Mon Feb 17, 2014 10:21 pm

I've never seen a front or rear spindle or a swing-arm spindle broken or even bent in stainless steel or standard steel production, irrespective of the grade. The only time they are under any substantial stress is when loose in bearing (as Gordon62) or in a spill/ bingle. They probably have a safety factor of 50.
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Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4


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