Dyna 2000 or Dyna S ?

[Ginger Bear]

I could do with some opinions please.

I'm trying to decide which ignition system to fit on my Z900 project. Originally I had planned to fit a complete Unitrak system, using the GPz loom, CDI take off's etc.
I've shelved that idea for now..........

I'm now thinking of something simpler, either Dyna S + Dyna coils, or Dyna 2000, that comes with Dyna coils. The difference in cost between the two systems is around £100.

What I'd really like to know, is the Dyna 2000 easy enough to set up & are all the advance curves and other features worth having, or is it really over complicated, fragile & prone to failure?

I must add, wiring doesn't phase me.

Motor will probably end up 1075, or possibly 1170 if I use later motor parts, carbs will be Mikuni RS34 or 36's

[Al]

I was going to do one of my monologues; DYNA 2000 HOW TO but that was a year or so back, never got round to it.

Of the five advance curves only two are relevant to 2 valve motors and personally i cant tell the difference between them on the track or road.
The diagnostic red LED is a useful function to tell if its working or not and to an extent how well its firing (regularly).
The built in rev limiter is a great addition and the ability to connect a shift kill or nitrous solenoid set up /stutter box / air shifter etc is also very handy and makes its very much more flexible than an 'S' ever will be.

You need a J inner housing as the UNITRAK one wont do it.

You cant turn the motor backwards (if you ever need to) because you loose the advance and retard with the 17mm 'drive nut' on it.
Instead you get a socket cap screw in the kit and turning the motor backwards just undoes it.

Set-up is easier than DYNA 'S' if that possible and the two 'S' wires that used to feed the LT side of the coils are exactly the same with 2000.
Which means if you have already converted to 'S' then 2000 is a straight swop.

Put simply; just line up the chosen advance range (40 degrees or what ever,... less if you have an eight plug set-up) with the fixed line and tighten the bolt.
Press go and thats it.

All the wires (facilities) that you dont use are just left hanging so just disconnect them from the multiplug or cut/ tape them and its all good.

My only real annoyance is with the mini loom that feeds from the pick-up unit in the side casing. It is about six or eight inches too short and has no covering so you are left with a large white plug and un-covered set of wires, about where the oil filler cap is and no amount of black sticky tape will make it look good!!!

Wouldn't go back to 'S' but could also not say why. It just seems to make more sense.

As for reliability i cant say its only been a bit over a year but the issues they had, i think were a bad batch.
Have also been told the module does not like vibration so some thought needs to be put to this.
Its about the size of a smart phone.
Mine will now live in foam on top of the battery now i have a shorter battery.

AL

[Robw]

If you are planning to fit an 8 plug head use a Dyna 2000, if not Dyna S will do. Both very easy to fit.
I have used the original bolt with the 17mm nut as it says use the original one in the instructions( unless I read it wrong, which is a possibility).
Should get it on a dyno in the next week or so, it will be good to checkout the different settings
Rob

[Pigford]

I've used both - me bestest Z1000 has had a Dyna 2000 for the last 6 years

Same as Al, I can't detect any difference between the various settings

I did have a failure after 2 x years & sent the whole unit back to Dynatek - it was replaced F.O.C - no other problems since then

[neilbarrett]

dyna s is all you need

[baz]

this any good to you bear ?

[KeithZ1R]

optical is the way to go with Dyna coils failing that you could always go the thinking mans Dyna .........Boyer

[Ginger Bear]

this any good to you bear ?

Could be Baz, once I've decided which direction I'm gonna go in.

[Big Fluff]

Personally, I think Dyna-S is just fine unless you have an engine with either very high CR or as mine, blown (turbo or supercharged).

The Dyna 2000 allows you to hook up a 'ground' switch to activate the retard function.

In the case of my turbo Saxon, I have an adjustable 'normally open' pressure switch in the plenum chamber, which is set at 6 psi. This then connects to the 'Retard' wire from the Dyna 2000.
Ignition timing is then set at standard 36 BTDC. My 'blow off' pressure (wastegate) is set at 13 psi. The ignition behaves exactly as normal (advancing up to 3000 rpm) until the plenum pressure exceeds the 6 psi, which is when the retard function retards to whatever amount you set it at.
I run 36 BTDC below 6 psi and 30 BTDC at anything above.

You can also use the same system on high CR motors to call in the retard function.

[big green bus]

I have both never had a prob with either I would prefer the 2000 just because it has the built in rev limited and choice of curves and security lock out

[KWACKERZ1]

bgb,
Whats the security lockout feature?
Not heard of that before.

[Ginger Bear]

9. Safety interlock input.

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Documents/ ... ctions.pdf

[KWACKERZ1]

Cheers GB could see why that would be useful.

[RALPHARAMA]

A big part of my love for old Zeds is the sheer simplicity/power balance!

With an old zed you get as much power as you really need in the real world, with easy tuneability. It's fair easy to make great improvements in handling.

Dyna S is simplicity itself and is known to be reliable. Dyna 2000 hasn't got such an unblemished record on reliability, so I've read.

You pays yer money and takes yer choice! For me it's the S every time. IMHO, unless you're racing and looking for fractions of second on lap times to gain advantage, I really can't see the real world advantage to the more complex 2000 system.

[ROZZER]

Dyna S- Low tech & high reliability just like Zeds themselves.