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GPz1100 Uni Rotor Removal Help

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LTD Project
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GPz1100 Uni Rotor Removal Help

#1 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Sat Dec 14, 2013 11:02 am

Anyone in the York Area got and can lend a tool to get the Alternator rotor off the Crank?

Or suggest other solution that doesn't break anything?

I am just north of York

Thanks
Help and motivation always required......
KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.
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z1bman
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#2 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Dec 14, 2013 11:29 am


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Al
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#3 PostAuthor: Al » Sat Dec 14, 2013 1:00 pm

The extractor / puller thread is 18 x 1.25mm same as the rear wheel spindle.
Dont be tempted to use the spindle with a weight to slide hammer it off. It will tear the knock pins out of the main bearing housings in the crankcase.
Its easy enough to make one or have one made but you will need to hold the rotor correctly or you will destroy it.
Main dealer may be able to help with the proper tool.

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... or+removal

AL
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#4 PostAuthor: marlin » Mon Dec 23, 2013 8:53 pm

to ltd , got a rotor extractor , live in wakefield give me a pm , cheers marlin

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#5 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Thu Dec 26, 2013 7:19 am

Thanks Marlin, but ended up getting a tool from Ralph (bikers toolkit).

Now got to work out how to use it properly, I tried doing it up real tight then hitting the end with a hammer..... No joy :roll:

Dont want to damage end of crank, i think I read somewhere about putting a ball bearing in first before screwing the tool in.

What is the correct approach to using the tool / removing the rotor?

This bike has cost enough without doing something dreadful to the end of the crank.

Thanks again
Help and motivation always required......

KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.

GB's old snotter in the operating theatre at present!

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#6 PostAuthor: tlc » Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:50 am

You're right to worry about the crank but you should be just as concerned about the magnets in the rotor.
Even a light shock can dislodge them.

Let's be careful out there.
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#7 PostAuthor: z1bman » Thu Dec 26, 2013 11:47 am

just keep tightening the extractor. if you don't have the tool to hold the rotor it is difficult to prevent the crank from turning. just strike/ shock the spanner tight with a copper hammer until it comes of

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#8 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Thu Dec 26, 2013 4:51 pm

Thanks for the replies.

Yes you are right, can't hold crank to get the tool done up tight.

So now need rotor holding tool............. This is taking longer than it should, walk away for another day
Help and motivation always required......

KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.

GB's old snotter in the operating theatre at present!

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#9 PostAuthor: marlin » Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:13 pm

why are you removing rotor ? new rotor ? engine rebuild ? big hit's on the end of the crank . BIG NO NO !!!!!! , use a strap that you would tie a bike down in the back of a van . round the rotor a piece of metal in to the floor . no big hit's to the crank , screw extractor in to rotor . no problem , cheers marlin

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#10 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:17 pm

Yes Marlin

The whole thing is coming apart and I will do what I can to refurb the engine internals that need it.

I have found a way of holding tight the rotor whilst screwing in the tool but rotor just will not budge, so tight is the tool now that I cannot remove it so now dont know what to do.....

Have progressed with the rest of the strip down, with out further problem but tool is still stuck out of the end of the rotor, i feel such a noob at times! :lol:
Help and motivation always required......

KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.

GB's old snotter in the operating theatre at present!

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#11 PostAuthor: marlin » Sat Dec 28, 2013 9:46 pm

to ltd . no panick . if you have rotor secure . release rotor tool a little bit . wd 40 / gt85 spray on to threads . work in and out . nice and steady . if you get a bit stressed go inside a cuppa tea deep breath come outside . nice and easy . cheers marlin

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#12 PostAuthor: z1bman » Sat Dec 28, 2013 10:05 pm

as a last resort get some heat on to the centre part of the rotor. if you are striping the motor wait until you remove the crank then put it in a vice to hold it then you will be able to get some better tension on the puller. if the puller is stuck it has probably started to strip the thread on the puller if its a cheap one as the Kawasaki tool is hardened

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#13 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:04 am

Thanks Z1b and Marlin

Tool obtained from Ralph.

Will have a go in bench vice today or tomorrow, will let you know the outcome.

Wish me luck!
Help and motivation always required......

KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.

GB's old snotter in the operating theatre at present!

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#14 PostAuthor: tlc » Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:22 am

Do be careful.

New ones are rare and costly.
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#15 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Sun Dec 29, 2013 10:58 am

Don't hit the rotor or extractor with an hammer and using a normal length spanner sometimes isn't enough.
If it really is that tight don't use anything on the rotor to lock it as it can distort , you need to find another way of holding the crank.
If you are stripping the bike anyway then pull the crank out of the cases and get it in the vice.
Use a 3 foot breaker bar, if the extractor is good quality it won't strip its threads and the rotor will pop off.


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