Chain length help

Redbeard · #1 PostAuthor: **Redbeard** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 2:53 pm

I put a Dresda on my ltd and the standard chain is clearly too long now (see pics). The chain has 96 links. Do you think a chain with 94 links would sort it or even less going by the pics (seems very slack)? Wheel is at furthest point and chain is definitely on front sprocket. Any help appreciated before I order one. Cheers!

Charlie · #2 PostAuthor: **Charlie** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 3:42 pm

Why not just shorten the one you have ? or is it knackered..

Redbeard · #3 PostAuthor: **Redbeard** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 4:15 pm

Aye it's had it mate. Few tight links and rust here and there. I could get a 94 link and shorten that I suppose.

hillbilly · #4 PostAuthor: **hillbilly** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:04 pm

take into account first,that this one has stretched,buy a 96 link,and go from there.

Fred the Zed · #5 PostAuthor: **Fred the Zed** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 5:29 pm

When I fitted a Dresda arm to my Z1R, I got a 530 chain and sprocket conversion from Debbens. It's lighter and stronger that a 630 anyhow. I'd dispense with any kind of split link chain and rivet your new chain on.

Fred

Charlie · #6 PostAuthor: **Charlie** » Sat Nov 23, 2013 10:17 pm

Fred the Zed wrote:When I fitted a Dresda arm to my Z1R, I got a 530 chain and sprocket conversion from Debbens. It's lighter and stronger that a 630 anyhow. I'd dispense with any kind of split link chain and rivet your new chain on.

Fred

Good advice.

Al · #7 PostAuthor: Al » Sun Nov 24, 2013 10:44 am

630;....Set the sprockets in line and lock the wheel in the mid position of its travel in the slots.
Pull the chain top and bottom runs as tight as you can and run the chain around the sprocket till you end up with a couple or three links in a small loop at the very back.
Subtract this number from the length of existing and order that length.
Dont forget to allow for the link that joins across the gap!!!
As has been said; a 530 chain conversion is by far the best option as a 630 chain cost will be about the same as the price for the smaller full set up!!
Debbens / Talon etc do chain and sprocket sets as do M&P and sprockets unlimited etc.

AL

Redbeard · #8 PostAuthor: **Redbeard** » Sun Nov 24, 2013 12:33 pm

Thanks for the advice guys, I will do the 530 conversion then.

Redbeard · #9 PostAuthor: **Redbeard** » Sun Dec 29, 2013 9:52 pm

Got my chain on today after removing a few links first. Need to rivet it on though, can anyone recommend a good chain tool or have one I can borrow? Beer tokens offered of course!

Charlie · #10 PostAuthor: **Charlie** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 10:45 am

It depends on what brand of chain you have. If its a DID chain the links need to be flared over using a tool something like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KM500-DID-Sty ... 2ec634e4ed

That is a cheaper copy of the proper DID tool which is over a hundred quid. There are cheaper still version that flare. The important thing is never be tempted to hammer DID links over. It can cause micro fractures in the hardened pins which can lead to a catastrophic chain failure.

I have a chain tool - but Sarf Yorks is a bit far to pop over sadly ;)

Redbeard · #11 PostAuthor: **Redbeard** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:53 pm

Thanks Charlie, it is a DID with the rivet link (dimpled pins which need to be flared, not flattened over with a hammer).

Charlie · #12 PostAuthor: **Charlie** » Mon Dec 30, 2013 6:47 pm

I actually work for the UK DID chain importer, that's how I know about the problem with hammering pins ;)

Many of the the cheaper clone tools don't come with user instructions. This is a link to the KM500 instruction sheet - it operates in the same way.

http://www.didchain.com/cutrivt.pdf

It downloads as a .pdf

Redbeard · #13 PostAuthor: **Redbeard** » Tue Dec 31, 2013 8:45 am

Cheers for your help Charlie, tool ordered mate. :wink:

Chain length help

Chain length help

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