GPZ1100 U/T A1

[bigrocketrider]

First off, many thanks to BRIAN S for donating me a surplus set of throttle bodies - set up is now spot on by my vacum gauges. However, I am finding that everything seems fine when you first start the bike up but once warm the revs gradually start to rise and then eventually settle at around 4000 and will not drop back down. If I leave the bike for an hour I can start her up and it will rev fine and tickover but then the same thing happens once warmed up. Tickover adjustment seems fine and I am not using the fast idle lever so I am thinking that I have a sticking TPS?? Any ideas most appreciated as the bike is really looking the part but I still cant' ride it!!!

[z1bman]

possible the engine temperature sensor or the wire that is attached to it broken. check for air leaks especially the engine breather pipe make sure it it attached to the air box correctly

[bigrocketrider]

Thanks Z1B Man I will check those items and report back if there is a difference. I have taken the TPS off my old throttle bodies and you can adjust it via the two screws up or down either way. Does it make any difference - is there a final set up on the TPS.

[z1bman]

there is a special tool for adjusting the tps. you can get it close by listening for a click at the tps just as you open the throttle. if you cannot hear the switch making the click adjust the tps

[bigrocketrider]

Now I never knew that one. This bike is proving a real learning curve.

[j.b]

pic below of the TPS setting tool.....i'm lucky enough to have minimal access to this one but from your symptoms i doubt that its the TPS at fault.

check, double check, then re-check again the fuel return valve back into the tank.....my mate had the same issues with his 1100b2 and he had to clean the valve a couple of times but it sorted the problem.
also have seen in one of cheemes posts about his 1000H that they're still available from cradley heath new.

happy hunting

[pluto]

Hi,
The TPS wears out at the bottom and even with the tool it can be very difficult to set the exact position. I have the tool but its on loan in Germany and wont be back until Christmas. You can set it in the middle so it the bike works then go out and fine tune it on the road.
I would check the engine temp sensor as symptoms point more to that. Even if the connector is ok cut the wire back and put a new connector on. There is a test in the kawasaki manual to check its operation that involves putting it in hot water and measuring the voltage. The injection works off about 5 volts so any corrosion on the terminals can cause big issues.
As j.b says additional pressure in the fuel rail will also cause a problem, years ago you could buy an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for tuned bikes - to richen the mixture you simply increased the pressure a touch.
Good Luck
Dave

[bigrocketrider]

Cheers for the info gents. I will try these ideas and let you know the outcome.

[bigrocketrider]

Definately getting somewhere now. Adjusted the TPS slightly (although could not hear a click) and it has got better. Bike still picks up revs ocassionally but not all the time and no where near as bad so clearly something is happening. Bike will rev fine but does not like to tick over and you need to hold the throttle at about 1000rpm to stop it stalling. My local dealer has a TPS set up kit so will look to get them to adjust it I think as I am just guessing. My other avenue of attack is the fuel check valve. What exactly do you have to do to this? I do notice that if I leave the bike after running that it starts bubbling at the fuel cap key hole which presumably indicates that the tank is pressurising,

Cheers for all your help so far.

One more point, anyone know how to load pictures up as I have one bit left over from the rebuild and I have no idea where it is from (typical). Its a 2" U shaped bit of thick metal very similar to the middle lower engine bolt bits on my Z1B - but this one has no thread.

[bigrocketrider]

Meant to say, also cleaned the engine temp sensor.