sticky vavle aaarrrggghhh!

[grumpuszed1]

sorry to but in, but the 30,45,60 degree angles, are these the same for inlet/exhaust?

[DogsbolloxofZ1B]

I'm sure it will be ?140 well spent as this is an area where a lot of mistakes are made.... in my oppinion of course..
When you refit the valves/springs double check the amount of stem protruding is within limits, as defined in the workshop manual, this will ensure you have some margin in shim sizes to set the gap correctly.

[grumpuszed1]

sorry i only have a crappy haynes manual, do you know what the protrusion of the stem should be? i know you can grind back the valve stem i think a max of 0.3mm and i work in a machine shop so have access to a surface grinder to do this on. anyone know where i get get a manual for a z1b? in pdf perhaps?

[Rich]

Make sure that the valve guide material is compatable with the valve.

[grumpuszed1]

the valves are pattern vesrah ones bought from z1 enterprises over the pond, the guides are genuine kwaka ones bought from z power?

[Ed Z1-R]

Grumps i wager its the same for IN & EX.
where the hell is Mr Marshall when his superior scanning/downloading skills are required




Z1B
Dunno angles could be different or may not



BUT DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS

[DogsbolloxofZ1B]

I'll scan this info tomorrow and post it in the evening.

[Garn 1]

Now, I don't say that this non re-cutting of the valve seat, is not the main source of the problem, however, it seems we are putting all the emphasis on this facet of the previous overhaul. If I had that problem, I would probably carefully remove the head examine piston top, then approach a mechanic with the head in one hand and cap in the other.

Although it is good practice to recut after a guide replacement, I have seen the replacement of guides done without this recut and worked perfectly. Even if it leaked badly and did not give an effective seal, it would mostly still run, as Grump's bike did! I think we should stop and think; what actually caused this break-down? I think the valve would have to a long way out of alignment with its seat to cause it to seize and bend.

RegardZ.

[DogsbolloxofZ1B]

Heres the info you may need, now & for the future..

Valve Seat Angles:


Valve Stem Table:



Valve Stem Protrusion:

[Big Fluff]

When reaming out new guides after installing into the head, I would reccomend an 'adjustable' reamer. Putting a 'fixed' 7mm reamer through may result in taking slightly more out of the guide than you actually require.

Regs, Will.

[Steve R]

Dogs,
Where is that copied from is it the kawasaki workshop manual, if so where can I get one?
Thanks Steve R

[DogsbolloxofZ1B]

Steve,
This was copied from the genuine Kawasaki workshop manual. You often see these on Ebay but can get a bit expensive. There are numerous editions but basically any Kwaka 900 issue will do. The first ones came out in Nov '72 and had a white cover and ran for a few years and the most common ones are titled KZ900 with a Blueish cover and a pic of the Z900 on it.

Good luck..

[grumpuszed1]

a big thank you to everyone who helped me with this problem, got the head back today with the valve seats re-cut i will be measuring valve height tomorrow and all going to plan bike should be back together by the end of the weekend hoorah! i used to be a member years back, i attended a couple of the z1oc's rallies when it was in held at a pub in lichfield,(not sure if its at the same venue now) this was back in the early 90's and i think i may re-join after seeing the community spirit within the club i am going to stafford on the saturday so i may pop into the stand and join then! once again thank you!
grumpuszed1 (aka graham)