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sticky vavle aaarrrggghhh!
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
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- Regular Poster
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- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
sticky vavle aaarrrggghhh!
next installment of my engine re-build, all back together,got the bike mot'd and taxed done 50 miles great! going out on it, brrrrrrrrr, from the engine,clutch pulled in real quick,engine stalled, turned engine over on kick start(real slow) its locked up.1 hour wait for mr AA, got top end stripped down and what do i find? no1 inlet vavle has got jammed,and so contacted with piston, no real damage to the piston, but vavle bent, guide f****d and me left scratching my head, all the vavles,guides,pistons,cam bearings are brand new, installed guides (the steel ones) myself, reamed them out 7mm after fitting, measured springs all within tolerance. so what happened? i removed all the vavles again to check them, the one that jammed had picked up on the vavle stem, two positions had big score marks on them with metal built up on them. i assembled the vavles with clean engine oil when i put them in so dont really know what went wrong,any body got any ideas? i dont know if i did something wrong and dont want it to happen again. please help 

Grumpus, I can think of only a few things that may have happened.
Assuming you have already done 50 miles on it.
All are pretty unlikely, however, I have heard of stranger things happening.
RegardZ.
Assuming you have already done 50 miles on it.
- 1. You have bent the valve when initialy setting the timing.
2. Your oil pump has come loose and the top-end has been starved for lubricant and a valve has siezed due to local overheating.
3. The timing chain had not been tensioned and has slipped a couple of teeth.
All are pretty unlikely, however, I have heard of stranger things happening.
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4
- DogsbolloxofZ1B
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- Location: Near Chichester
Sorry to hear of your bad news. One important factor when replacing the guides, as you probably know, is to ensure you re-cut the seats to be in perfect axial/contact alignment again. If you didn't and merely lapped the valves then this maybe a consequence.
I was aware of this when rebuilding my Z1B so had SERDI's install tighter tolerance inserts into the original guides and re-cut the seats.
Good luck..
I was aware of this when rebuilding my Z1B so had SERDI's install tighter tolerance inserts into the original guides and re-cut the seats.
Good luck..
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- Regular Poster
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no i wasnt aware that you had to recut the vavle seats,and yes i did simply re-grind the vavles with lapping compound. not sure what SERDI'S is ? is it a garage? can i simply get a tool to re-cut the seats? if so where from? all the old guides were binned as they were the old bronze type and got a bit mashed when i drove them out. got a new vavle/guide on order so further help would be much appreciated, also do you know how much clearance between vavle stem and guide, the vavles are 6.97mm and guide reamed out to 7mm so 0.03mm this is just over a thou should this be more?
Valve seats
It's a good job that I have read this article as I have just replaced the valve guides on Z1B. Next I will ream them out and then re-cut valve seats. Where do I get a tool for re-cutting the valve seats. Can I hire one and if so where abouts in Essex 

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- Regular Poster
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- DogsbolloxofZ1B
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- Location: Near Chichester
Here's a link to SERDI UK LTD, a great bunch of guys and prompt service.
Make sure you get a quote though to avoid surprises..
http://www.serdi.co.uk/serdi/htm/contact_us.htm
Make sure you get a quote though to avoid surprises..
http://www.serdi.co.uk/serdi/htm/contact_us.htm
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- Regular Poster
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- Joined: 27th Jul 2007
- Location: Saltash,cornwall
Valve faces are often cut at 30 & 75 degs, then the valve contact surface is cut/lapped/ground at 45 degs to the specified width to get a nice seal.
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/eng ... lvSeat.pdf
http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/manual/eng ... lvSeat.pdf
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
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