ollie wrote:It wasn't a certain breaker in hull was it Rob?
No! it was one in derbyshire, Haven't had any problems with the breakers in hull..... Yet
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Zed 900 road racer .
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
KWACKERZ1 wrote:Dave East engineering in Enderby Leicestershire is a specialist in wheel straightening.
Dave East Engineering Ltd
Phone: 0116 284 8296
The Old Dairy, George Street, Enderby, Leicester, Leicestershire, LE19 4NQ
You could try him, he is a perfectionist and used to build TZ's and other race bikes for people in his day. Brilliant guy just does a few days a week now doing wheels, but like you Rob is a proper engineer.
(Be warned he can be a bit grumpy and I think tues wed thurs are the days he is around)
Thank's for that but no need as the wheel i've got now is a minter and straight as an arrow.
Well! I set about aligning the 750 wheel up today now i've sobered up.
Made up a fresh spacer for the sprocket side which ended up needing to be 6mm wider than the one for the 10r wheel.
This left very little space on the right hand side to squeeze in the caliper hanger as the 750 wheel is much wider on the brake disc side.
I got back another 3mm by moving the 3mm swingarm spacer i made over from the right to the left and took 3mm of the freshly turned spacer to get everything all back central.
Still had to skim a couple of mill off my new caliper hanger too to get it in.
it has to be a lot slimmer than the one i made for the ten wheel(on the right) because of the 750's wider hub
This threw up another problem as there is now no room between the caliper bracket and swingarm to fit in the torque arm .... ARSE!
Time out to sit and stare at it for 20 min's with a cuppa and intermittent swearing and then .....
After a bit of measuring a couple of m10 holes were drilled and tapped
And the excess material removed.
Turn up a couple of ally bobbins and add some stainless capheads.
And problem solved
Top bobbin sits against swingarm to prevent the caliper rotating and has been drilled eccentric to take up any slack when the wheel is moved back
bottom bobbin prevents any slim chance of the caliper rotating back
Job done :D
Made up a fresh spacer for the sprocket side which ended up needing to be 6mm wider than the one for the 10r wheel.
This left very little space on the right hand side to squeeze in the caliper hanger as the 750 wheel is much wider on the brake disc side.
I got back another 3mm by moving the 3mm swingarm spacer i made over from the right to the left and took 3mm of the freshly turned spacer to get everything all back central.
Still had to skim a couple of mill off my new caliper hanger too to get it in.
it has to be a lot slimmer than the one i made for the ten wheel(on the right) because of the 750's wider hub
This threw up another problem as there is now no room between the caliper bracket and swingarm to fit in the torque arm .... ARSE!
Time out to sit and stare at it for 20 min's with a cuppa and intermittent swearing and then .....
After a bit of measuring a couple of m10 holes were drilled and tapped
And the excess material removed.
Turn up a couple of ally bobbins and add some stainless capheads.
And problem solved
Top bobbin sits against swingarm to prevent the caliper rotating and has been drilled eccentric to take up any slack when the wheel is moved back
bottom bobbin prevents any slim chance of the caliper rotating back
Job done :D
Last edited by zed1015 on Sun Dec 02, 2012 9:44 am, edited 2 times in total.
Time for a break re-thin kand a cold one Zed .....
Rich wrote:Have a think about what will happen when you adjust the chain
Nothing unexpected.
It's all been catered for with the addition of the eccentric bobbin.
Although i have now switched the location of the adjuster to the bottom position as it needs less rotation to take up any slack and also feel a fixed pin on the loaded side is a stronger set-up and better engineering practice
Excellet Zed looks great too Finally got the swingarm in proper .
Large diameter pivot tube interfered with the rear of the crankcases so had to come up with a better solution than my original effort with the files for the dry build.
so cut out a neat section and pressed in an alloy sleeve to seal it back up
Much better looking and also fitted a grease nipple while i was at it
Large diameter pivot tube interfered with the rear of the crankcases so had to come up with a better solution than my original effort with the files for the dry build.
so cut out a neat section and pressed in an alloy sleeve to seal it back up
Much better looking and also fitted a grease nipple while i was at it
Last edited by zed1015 on Thu Dec 06, 2012 12:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
Next up was the frame pivot bolt which now looked manky compared to the fresh powder coat so machined the head and threads off and tapped up the center to take the couple of stainless bolts and washers i turned up.
Made the threads on the bolt for the head end of the pivot a "squeaky fit" and used a touch of thread lock as lube.
Can't see that ever coming out.
Now on to the shock and linkage.
Refurbed the rocker arm and shock and made up some adjustable tie bars to get the bike sitting just right once completed
Now the swingarm bolt won't let the side down
Also got the brass fittings to finish off the oil cooler take offs.
They are slightly larger internal diameter than the "proper" AN8 fittings so will be easily up to the job
All fitted after a quick coat of paint
Made the threads on the bolt for the head end of the pivot a "squeaky fit" and used a touch of thread lock as lube.
Can't see that ever coming out.
Now on to the shock and linkage.
Refurbed the rocker arm and shock and made up some adjustable tie bars to get the bike sitting just right once completed
Now the swingarm bolt won't let the side down
Also got the brass fittings to finish off the oil cooler take offs.
They are slightly larger internal diameter than the "proper" AN8 fittings so will be easily up to the job
All fitted after a quick coat of paint
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