Zed 900 road racer .

[Mr Puffin]

Valve stem heights all done and set around the minimum height so will be in the 280/300- ish shim range once i've lapped the valves.
Home made height tools make for quick checking and adjustment and much easier and consistantly accurate than using a vernier.

Great idea Zed i have bean having trouble measuring valve height on a Z1100 head, repeatedly getting different measurements on the same valve. This looks like sure way to accurate measurements

[750steve]

A cunning plan.

Decided i could use a bit of extra length ( Oo'er ) on the front end
So had a bit of a measure and discovered that the ZX10's forks fixed top bush is 160mm from the top of the fork outer leg .



And the fork slider has a full 34 mm of unused surface above this in an uncompressed state . So i figured there's a safe 32mm of extra length i can gain without too much trouble and even less expense



Just a matter of extending the damper assembly (which controls fork travel) by 32mm.

A bit of a rummage turned up some old ally ZXR fork tops
r srad swingarm bearing spacers which were perfect donor material for the job[/b]


A combination of turned down zxr adjuster pressed into a srad spacer


Produced the extended spring preload spacers


Next turn up the threaded damper rod extensions


On which i milled some flats

To take a spanner


Then add some longer preload rods (more donor zxr)


And screw it all together



And there you go




Spot the difference




And not a vacuum pump in sight

Ok, only Rob will know what i mean here but..................FOOK THAT!! Excellent that you can do that kinda stuff though Rob, WELL beyond me!

[zed1015]

Ok, only Rob will know what i mean here but..................FOOK THAT!! Excellent that you can do that kinda stuff though Rob, WELL beyond me!

Nah! Anyone could do it .
It's only a matter of extending the damper rod,preload rod and spring spacer all by the same amount.
The original spring spacer could have just been extended rather than making a whole new one, but me being me i didn't like the original PLASTIC spacer so made it out of ally.

[Mr Puffin]

Nice job 32mm is good stretch. makes me wonder why they made the fork this way to begin with though. The japs being cost effective and all

[750steve]

Ok, only Rob will know what i mean here but..................FOOK THAT!! Excellent that you can do that kinda stuff though Rob, WELL beyond me!

Nah! Anyone could do it .
It's only a matter of extending the damper rod,preload rod and spring spacer all by the same amount.
The original spring spacer could have just been extended rather than making a whole new one, but me being me i didn't like the original PLASTIC spacer so made it out of ally.

You say that as if its easy.......what you mean is spin up a new spacer, replace the damper rod & preload rod with a longer ones AND make sure they're all the same length! S'pose thats ok if you have the bits OR know what bits will work!

Cant wait to see this thing running!!

[zed1015]

Finally got the head fitted and as usual the top idler rubbers are well past their sell by date so i knocked up some billet substitutes similar to those available from APE etc.
I used the original hollow dowels from the old rubber blocks pressed in the center to lock the whole assembly together.



While i was at it with the hammers i threw together a manual tensioner from an ally offcut, some nuts and a stainless bolt with the head machined round.







Just need to degree in the cams and that's the bulk of the motor done.

[Rich]

I found that A2 stainless was a little soft on the chain adjuster end for those and dished slightly.

[zed1015]

Couldn't resist fitting the shiney backplate for the Electrex ignition.



And set about making a stone guard from a later model alt cover


The whole thing was reduced in height as much as possible


And the end welded back on


I built up the inside of the joint with weld so that the covers edges could be profiled for a rounder appearance to match the early motors covers and have begun cutting away the rest of the case so that ignitions shiney loveliness isn't fully hidden

[Padders]

Excellent work Rob

[zed1015]

Degreed the cams in this afternoon.
They are std so set them at 110 deg.
Might play about with the lobe centers once i've done a few miles and seen how it runs



While i had the degree disc on i took the opportunity to fit the ignition windings and rotor and set the static timing
(Aligned the yellow markings with the crank set at 10 deg btdc)


Which gave me chance to test fit the stone guard.
The finished item will be painted black




Toying with the idea of putting in a few vents ???
opinions welcome

[Is Vic There]

Nice job, I think the vents would look good depending on how they were laid out.

[neilbarrett]

looks more finished of with the holes in ,what you gunna do for power for the lights,have a small battery or remote alternator

[Ginger Bear]

Vents get my vote.

[chriskid]

Very nice job with that ingnition cover, like to steal that idea for my Bakker on which I have the same ignition on ...

[zed1015]

looks more finished of with the holes in ,what you gunna do for power for the lights,have a small battery or remote alternator

Just fitting a small total loss battery in the tail for brake light and horn to keep the mot man happy.