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Modern USD Fork Dissasmebly

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Royalratch
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Modern USD Fork Dissasmebly

#1 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:49 pm

Hi lads.

My Z800 build will use 2005-2006 ZX6R USD Forks exactly as pictured below.

Image

I need to remove the axle clamp leg from the chrome slider to have the slider re-coated.

I understand these are threaded on? Anything else I need to know? There's an adjuster sat into the part at an angle and an allen bolt at the base of the leg.

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#2 PostAuthor: z1bman » Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:08 pm

you will need to apply some heat to the aluminium casting either with a heat gun or a gas torch remove the allen key at the side of the casting when hot. the fork stanchion will need to be clamped into a vise with some soft jaws. the casting is secured with loctite so will require some intense heat

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#3 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:36 pm

Cheers mate.

Someone I spoke to said that when I remove the adjuster barrel / allen bolt from the side of the casting that it will leave some burred edges that could catch on the thread and stop it - he said to 'deburr' it with a small drill bit put into the barrel recess.

Make sense?

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#4 PostAuthor: z1bman » Thu Sep 27, 2012 5:56 pm

its your choice but something i have never done + i have removed quite a few of these just make sure the casting is (hot) before you attempt to undo the allen screw. you will need to put the spindle into the casting to unscrew it from the stanchion

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#5 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:14 pm

The damping adjuster will just unscrew but does not need removing to unscrew the leg as it is below the level of the threads in the casting but is best removed to avoid damage of the sealing 'O' rings by the heat.
The Allen grub screws are notoriously tight and sometimes will only come out with drilling, Carefull not to go too big or you will hit the threads (4.2mm for m5 or 5mm for m6)
There is a through hole towards the top of the stanction, this is there to accept a tommy bar to assist in unscrewing.

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#6 PostAuthor: needaz1100r » Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:50 pm

I used to run a suspension company, my partner was Dave Parkinson, so I've taken lots of these apart. I found it quite rare to be able to do it without destroying the stantion, but then every time I did it, it was to fit new ones.

The heat application mentioned is crucial, I used to use a 1/4" hex drive torx bit hammered home into the grub screw to get that out, a good one, Snap On work a treat, cheap ones break. Hammer it in then heat the casting until the threadlock starts to bubble, if you heat it 'till it's dry they can stick.

To turn the casting, I used to find a socket that was the right size to clamp through where the spindle goes and then an extension bar in the socket makes an excellent lever, I never had the spindle as the forks were sent to us. The same goes again with the heat, if you dry the thread lock out completely it can stick and be harder to get off, nice soft threadlock and a hot casting is what you need.

To re-assemble, if you end up with an old stantion, run a hacksaw down the threads and use it to clean the casting threads out, then loads of threadlock on the new one. The reason for cleaning out the threads is - you really need to know that the new or re-chromed stantion is all the way home in the casting. Maybe even a bent leg dissambled so you can use it as a thread cleaner is a good investment for a few quid, because you really do not want your new or rechromed stantion sticking on old threadlock before it's seated.

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#7 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Thu Sep 27, 2012 6:51 pm

I sent my last set of usd's to HCP&G (Hard chrome plating & grinding). http://www.hardchromeplating.co.uk/
They will remove the lower parts for you........ At a cost of £50, then charge around £140 to re-chrome both legs.

Without being rude Mr Ratch, after seeing your barrel removing technique, it's probably £50 well spent!
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#8 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:04 pm

Lol!

Those barrels were seriously rusted on. The head rods were shocking when I finally 'removed' them.

Yeh, the place I'm using will TiNitride both sliders for £150 plus £50 to strip and rebuild (new seals / oil).

I was well up for doing it myself but I'd need at least £90 of tools so maybe not worth the bother...

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#9 PostAuthor: needaz1100r » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:20 pm

For £50.00 it's a no brainer!

I wouldn't do it in the course of a business for that.

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#10 PostAuthor: Royalratch » Thu Sep 27, 2012 11:29 pm

It is a no brainer but I like doing jobs myself - there's no price on an evening spent spattering.

Got plenty else to do anyway...!

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#11 PostAuthor: needaz1100r » Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:12 am

Royalratch wrote:It is a no brainer but I like doing jobs myself - there's no price on an evening spent spattering.

Got plenty else to do anyway...!


Couldn't agree more, but I have a rule for myself. If I can grind it down , cut it off, drill it out, strip it off or other wise reverse the thing I am doing for myself, or if I can get another if I f... up for an amount I am happy to spend, then fine, otherwise over to the experts.

The art of DIY is knowing when not to DIY!


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