Booked the J for Donnington in August. Never done it before.
Gererally speaking: front suspension hard or soft, front tyre hard or soft, rear suspension hard or soft and damping; restrained or free moving, rear tyre the same question?
Lower the front end to move weight foward?
Power; adjust for low end torque, mid range or top end?
This is a standard road bike so the possibilities are limited but any advice would be gratfully recieved.
AL
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Track day setup
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
Track day setup
1981 J1
Al - don't think it's that easy.... Depends on track conditions & demands - and how the bikes reacting after a blast, then you can start tuning the suspension.
Harder compression up front will most likely be needed to cope with the heavy braking..... May need same at rear to reduce squat on hard acceleration
Too hard ain't good as you'll loose grip & may experience chatter at rear when heavy braking......... so just set her up a bit firmer than normal & see what happens
Harder compression up front will most likely be needed to cope with the heavy braking..... May need same at rear to reduce squat on hard acceleration
Too hard ain't good as you'll loose grip & may experience chatter at rear when heavy braking......... so just set her up a bit firmer than normal & see what happens
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
best suspension
If you can set it up for approx 30mm static sag front and back so that its balanced then that is a good place to start.
You might then need to go stiffer but these things are difficult to adjust compared to modern bikes but 30mm always seems to work ok for me.
GP250'S Run about 20mm and full spec superbikes 25-28 mm so for road and track 28-30mm always seems about right for a less than average rider like me!!
Personally ride it how you're used to it, dont mess it up just for the track session as you will have enough to think about without the bike feeling strange to you. You want to be comfortable with the bike and just concentrate on learning the track and enjoying yourself.
You might then need to go stiffer but these things are difficult to adjust compared to modern bikes but 30mm always seems to work ok for me.
GP250'S Run about 20mm and full spec superbikes 25-28 mm so for road and track 28-30mm always seems about right for a less than average rider like me!!
Personally ride it how you're used to it, dont mess it up just for the track session as you will have enough to think about without the bike feeling strange to you. You want to be comfortable with the bike and just concentrate on learning the track and enjoying yourself.
Thanks gents, i have it very soft on the road because of the appalling condition of the surface but i prefer it more taught.
I would guess at 4 or five sessions in the day. Each lasts 20 mins with 40 mins down time for other classes of riders.
I dont see me buggering a tyre valve, snapping a fork bolt or dropping small screws from the bike being very relaxed with such a short interval between runs as productive.
I'd like to go there with a basic setup and do as little damage as possible in the rest periods.
Thats without all the other faffing and changing of pants etc etc etc.
Anyone make a comment on power distribution or location??? Currently very little happens until three figures and the YOUTUBE video's of mid range bikes seem to circulate at 70 to 80 MPH!
AL
I would guess at 4 or five sessions in the day. Each lasts 20 mins with 40 mins down time for other classes of riders.
I dont see me buggering a tyre valve, snapping a fork bolt or dropping small screws from the bike being very relaxed with such a short interval between runs as productive.
I'd like to go there with a basic setup and do as little damage as possible in the rest periods.
Thats without all the other faffing and changing of pants etc etc etc.
Anyone make a comment on power distribution or location??? Currently very little happens until three figures and the YOUTUBE video's of mid range bikes seem to circulate at 70 to 80 MPH!
AL
1981 J1
If it's your first trackday then don't complicate things by worrying about bike setup; you're not going to be at the front of the fast group (well if you are I've a contract here for you to sign!) so just ride your own bike the way you know it.
About the only worthwhile thing would be to adjust the tyre pressures as the standard road pressures are a compromise designed to work at all temperatures on all surfaces.
If there's a tyre support chappie at the trackday then ask him and he'll adjust them for you (don't forget to get them put back to road pressures afterwards).
Just ride your bike, learn and enjoy the circuit. Treat it like your favorite bit of road without volvos, dibbles, dead badgers and gravel - that's all it is; a really nice bit of tarmac to play on.
About the only worthwhile thing would be to adjust the tyre pressures as the standard road pressures are a compromise designed to work at all temperatures on all surfaces.
If there's a tyre support chappie at the trackday then ask him and he'll adjust them for you (don't forget to get them put back to road pressures afterwards).
Just ride your bike, learn and enjoy the circuit. Treat it like your favorite bit of road without volvos, dibbles, dead badgers and gravel - that's all it is; a really nice bit of tarmac to play on.
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