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replacing liners

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malmojoe

replacing liners

#1 PostAuthor: malmojoe » Thu Mar 29, 2012 10:46 am

I have an old Z1 cylinder block which has been bored out to about 69mm . I bought it for a resto I am doing. I've been quoted £110 a liner by SEP which I can't do really.
I was thinking, I could get a decent (later) standard block and switch the liners. Has anyone replaced theirs and was it very difficult?

Also - is it that important to have the correct block on an early Z?

nanno
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#2 PostAuthor: nanno » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:10 am

Swapping liners is p*ss easy, once you know how.

You need a good oven, two bars and your cylinder.

You put your cylinder (bottom up) on the two bars and put it in the oven, heat it up to around 150 - 170 degrees Celsius and then one after the other you will here a *clunk*-sound, that's when the liners fall out of the cylinder.

On the second cylinder mark the position they are installed and repeat the process. Now put the liners you want to use in the freezer and let them cool down properly overnight (they have to be nicely cool to prevent distortion). Next step: Heat up the cylinder, which you want to use, to a bit more than the temperature, that the liners went out with in the first place (I would go for 200+ degrees to say the least) and then take it out and drop the new liners in and make sure that they are installed straight (as they have cutouts for the crank).

If the temperature-difference is big enough this is really a "drop-in" process. Then let everything cool down nicely together and have the cylinder bored or honed to spec.

Cheers,
Greg
There's no replacement for displacement!

Keefleaf
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#3 PostAuthor: Keefleaf » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:12 am

Does the block have O ring around cam chain tunnel?
Is the 903 c cast on block flat or have ridge thru' it ?
If it has groove for O ring then not Z1 correct.
I can send you Email Pic of both sets for I.D.

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jimmock
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#4 PostAuthor: jimmock » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:15 am

nanno wrote:Swapping liners is p*ss easy, once you know how.

You need a good oven, two bars and your cylinder.

You put your cylinder (bottom up) on the two bars and put it in the oven, heat it up to around 150 - 170 degrees Celsius and then one after the other you will here a *clunk*-sound, that's when the liners fall out of the cylinder.

On the second cylinder mark the position they are installed and repeat the process. Now put the liners you want to use in the freezer and let them cool down properly overnight (they have to be nicely cool to prevent distortion). Next step: Heat up the cylinder, which you want to use, to a bit more than the temperature, that the liners went out with in the first place (I would go for 200+ degrees to say the least) and then take it out and drop the new liners in and make sure that they are installed straight (as they have cutouts for the crank).

If the temperature-difference is big enough this is really a "drop-in" process. Then let everything cool down nicely together and have the cylinder bored or honed to spec.

Cheers,
Greg


I bet your wife is WELL PLEASED about that!!!!

Steak pie in GTX gravy!!!

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zed1015
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#5 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:15 am

Liners come out easily.
At the factory they were cold pressed in.
To avoid pulling material from the alloy block and making subsequent liners a looser fit it is best to heat the block in the oven for removal.
Place the block in the oven so that the liner spigots (the parts that stick down out of the alloy block) are pointing down and set the temp at around 200 deg.
After a while the block will expand and slide down the liners under its own weight.
You can now remove the liners.
Do the donor block first.
Then do the block you intend to use and switch the liners immediately for the ones you have previously removed (make sure they are fully seated).
Have two spacers ready that go under either end of the alloy block at the side of the liner spigots.
These must be longer than the liner spigots so that the liners hang free and remain seated whilst cooling.
Switch off the oven and let the block cool naturally to avoid distortion.
You might have to have the block skimmed level to ensure a flat surface for the head gasket.

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DogsbolloxofZ1B
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Replacement NEW Liners

#6 PostAuthor: DogsbolloxofZ1B » Thu Mar 29, 2012 12:03 pm

I buy replacement LA Liners from this guy:-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380125524456? ... 1423.l2649

Regards,
Mike

malmojoe

#7 PostAuthor: malmojoe » Thu Mar 29, 2012 12:14 pm

thanks for all excellent tips. I'll try and pick up a cheap std (o ringed) block with pistons and do the do. If I can't find one, or if it all works out too expensive, I'll go with dogs suggestion and buy them from JH.
Keith, it is an early non-o ring one I paid a fortune for :lol:

ta all


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