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chain adjustment

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jakeymara
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chain adjustment

#1 PostAuthor: jakeymara » Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:20 pm

Hi

I was hoping to find info on the drive chain tension/ adjustment in my Haynes manual, but it seems it is only useful for wiping my backside at the moment. :roll:

I have performed a search on this site as this must be a common question but I found nowt on the subject.

Can anyone tell me the correct level of adjustment/ slack/ tension for the drive chain?

Cheers

Neil

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Garn 1
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#2 PostAuthor: Garn 1 » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:07 pm

Niel, before tearing the pages out of your Haynes for use as you intended, there is a paragraph headed "Final Drive Chain: Examination & Lubrication".
Chain Tension is correct if there is (25-40 mm) about 1 and 1/4 inch slack. This slack is measured at the centre of the bottom run of the chain, between the two sprockets.
Note: You should have the bike on the centre-stand and rotate the rear wheel to check the tension in various positions as the chain can wear unevenly.
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4

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jakeymara
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chain adjustment

#3 PostAuthor: jakeymara » Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:44 pm

Cheers Garn,

An eye test and a pair of specs is called for I think!

Neil :)

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#4 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Fri Jun 15, 2007 4:07 pm

Neil i agree with Garn on adjustment but make sure this is also taken on the tightest spot on the chain

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#5 PostAuthor: Pigford » Fri Jun 15, 2007 6:31 pm

Also, once done & all tightened up, sit on bike (not on centre stand) and check its not too tight as i believe the movement of the swingarm causes it to, errr, tighten up a bit :?
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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jakeymara
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chain

#6 PostAuthor: jakeymara » Fri Jun 15, 2007 7:49 pm

Thanks for the advice guys.

Hear you have trouble with your clutch Pigford and I am just worrying about slack in a bleedin chain, it puts maintenance into context! Hope you sort it easily.

N

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#7 PostAuthor: Pigford » Fri Jun 15, 2007 7:57 pm

Jakeymara, cheers for the concern me old mucker, but its nothing to worry about :!:
I happen to have a couple of spare clutch baskets, one with good springs, and I was going to try it, but as the engine needs splitting, it can wait :wink:
If I try to pull away with minimum revs, the bike shudders until clutch is fully home & bikes moving along. Also, theres a bit of judder when pulling at low revs in gear (around 2000rpm), which is down to slack basket springs, not uncommon. There is another thread "Clutching at Straws" which Steve Debbens answered, and a clutch rebuild set is available if all else fails, but this is a fiddly job, rivets and things :|
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#8 PostAuthor: Ed Z1-R » Sat Jun 16, 2007 6:04 am

Neil i agree with Pigford on this too about sitting on it and give it a few bounces too havin a shufti to see how chain hangin if you cant suss it get a make to check it whilst you bounce :up

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#9 PostAuthor: uk kev » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:54 am

Here is the lowdown according to Kawasaki, from the workshop manual.

To determine whether or not the chain requires adjustment, first set the motorcycle up on its center stand.
Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest, and measure the vertical movement between the sprockets (on lower chain).
If it is less than 30mm or more than 40mm, adjust the chain so that the vertical movement will be about 30~35 mm.

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#10 PostAuthor: Rich » Sat Jun 16, 2007 4:56 pm

Pigford wrote:Jakeymara, cheers for the concern me old mucker, but its nothing to worry about :!:
I happen to have a couple of spare clutch baskets, one with good springs, and I was going to try it, but as the engine needs splitting, it can wait :wink:
If I try to pull away with minimum revs, the bike shudders until clutch is fully home & bikes moving along. Also, theres a bit of judder when pulling at low revs in gear (around 2000rpm), which is down to slack basket springs, not uncommon. There is another thread "Clutching at Straws" which Steve Debbens answered, and a clutch rebuild set is available if all else fails, but this is a fiddly job, rivets and things :|


try putting some new springs in and check the splines for grooves.
Rich
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jakeymara
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#11 PostAuthor: jakeymara » Sat Jun 16, 2007 9:56 pm

Thanks again guys

Rich, I am sure the shocks are OK. The bike has brand new Hagons on it and she handles as well as can be expected.

Notwithstanding, I can handle a bike..knee down the lot. But I was out on the twistiies on a run out with a local classic bike club on Monday and was userped all the way by a 1930s Velocete Venom...ridden by a 74 year old guy!! I only caught him on the straights, I think it proves my bike is a Yank import! :oops:

The chain has not been adjusted for a while, as it was slack....48mm slack.

Cheers

N

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jakeymara
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chain

#12 PostAuthor: jakeymara » Sat Jun 16, 2007 10:06 pm

Rich

Having read your mail properly I have slowly sussed out you are referring to Pigford's clutch problem not my shocks or chain issue.

It is just a ploy to send enough mails to get to Custard Cream status!

N

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#13 PostAuthor: Rich » Sun Jun 17, 2007 7:20 pm

Yes it's the clutch take up that I was talking about.
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#14 PostAuthor: Pigford » Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:50 am

Rich, do you mean the 5 x springs bolted in place, rather than the basket ones :?:
Jakeymara, sorry for hijacking your thread mate :wink:
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

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#15 PostAuthor: jakeymara » Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:50 am

Pigford, no bother, I raised it this thread anyway.

N


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