if the baffle is removable remove it +look down the exhaust pipe just in case there is an internal baffle plate that might have come loose ie weld broken ?
the centre stand stop bracket should be fitted to the left rear exhaust mounting
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vibration at 4000 rpm
Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus
As I remember the baffle is a very tight fit and once removed its just a straight through pipe but I will look at the collector box when I've got it apart.
Going to fit the centerstand bracket on the left now. I just prefered it on the right as it's mostly hidden behind the silencer but if it cures my problem then on the left it stays!
Going to fit the centerstand bracket on the left now. I just prefered it on the right as it's mostly hidden behind the silencer but if it cures my problem then on the left it stays!
Will check it and check it again. If the exhaust doesn't shed any light then not sure where to go next.
a friend of mine rebuilt the motor on a cx500 about 15 years ago + had this loud rattle + bad vibration . he stripped the motor 2 times + was pulling his hair out trying to figure the problem. it sounded like a big end rattle. it turned out to be a loose inner down pipe + would only get the problem at 4-5 thousand revs
All I have managed to do today is remove the rear exhaust mount and pull the exhaust away from the frame at this point and guess what..............
ITS STILL THERE!!!
Now I'm not sure if it is the exhaust or not.
I'm going to give it a service (shims, carbs, oil change etc etc ) and I think I'll ask me brother to borrow his Harris exhaust. It is on a Z1000a1 but it should fit with a bit of fettling of the rear mount I think. At least this would prove whether it's exhaust or not.
Thanks for your suggestions and keep them coming. I am also considering the smaller Z900 sprocket to bring the revs down as this would put the vibration at about 80 to 85 mph I think rather than 60 plus as it is now. Has anyone done this on here. Does it change the performance/ fuel useage too much? It's just hiding the problem I know but this is starting to annoy me a tad!
Cheers, Rog
ITS STILL THERE!!!
Now I'm not sure if it is the exhaust or not.
I'm going to give it a service (shims, carbs, oil change etc etc ) and I think I'll ask me brother to borrow his Harris exhaust. It is on a Z1000a1 but it should fit with a bit of fettling of the rear mount I think. At least this would prove whether it's exhaust or not.
Thanks for your suggestions and keep them coming. I am also considering the smaller Z900 sprocket to bring the revs down as this would put the vibration at about 80 to 85 mph I think rather than 60 plus as it is now. Has anyone done this on here. Does it change the performance/ fuel useage too much? It's just hiding the problem I know but this is starting to annoy me a tad!
Cheers, Rog
Just be methodical on this problem Rog,bet when you find it,it will be something daft,go through all the suggestions members have made one at a time,it will be worth it in the end,just think if you had a old Brit you would have the vibes all the time,my t140 used to shake me to bits 
PAULJAC47,,,,,"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."
-Han Solo
You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter
Salad is what real food eats.
Anon
PUM 673
-Han Solo
You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter
Salad is what real food eats.
Anon
PUM 673
Right here goes. I've started to do the service so exhaust off, checked all through and no broken welds, loose baffles etc. It is single skin so no problems there. Dumped the oil out and all was good. Nothing abnormal in the oil. Good sign so new oil and filter. Took off the alternator cover because I had a very slight weep from the gasket (did this before I filled it back up with oil). I also wanted to check the rotor and after reading the Climer manual, wanted to check the starter gear for sideways play due to the damper ring.
There was play and according to the manual, with the intermediate gear removed there should be a slight drag of the starter gear when turned. Mine spun quite freely. Luckily I had a thicker one.
Anyway, then I grabbed hold of the rotor and I could rock it back and forth. The rotor was tight so...... Camchain! I here you cry.
Schoolboy error I'm afraid. Adjusted the camchain, Took off the rotor and starter gear. Fitted the thicker damper ring and now I have just enough drag on it and no sideways play.
I have also done the shims. Just the one inlet was tight. Had one in stock the right size.
Haven't started it yet, ran out of time
I wondered if the side play on the starter gear would cause my problem. I know the gear doesn't spin once the engine has started but wondered if this would vibrate in some way. The camchain play couldn't be helping either.
Anyway feeling good that I've found and fixed these problems (one obvious one not so) and now sat down with a bowl of chilli and a pint!(':D')
Having to work all weekend so won't be able to finish it off til Monday.
Cheers
There was play and according to the manual, with the intermediate gear removed there should be a slight drag of the starter gear when turned. Mine spun quite freely. Luckily I had a thicker one.
Anyway, then I grabbed hold of the rotor and I could rock it back and forth. The rotor was tight so...... Camchain! I here you cry.
Schoolboy error I'm afraid. Adjusted the camchain, Took off the rotor and starter gear. Fitted the thicker damper ring and now I have just enough drag on it and no sideways play.
I have also done the shims. Just the one inlet was tight. Had one in stock the right size.
Haven't started it yet, ran out of time
I wondered if the side play on the starter gear would cause my problem. I know the gear doesn't spin once the engine has started but wondered if this would vibrate in some way. The camchain play couldn't be helping either.
Anyway feeling good that I've found and fixed these problems (one obvious one not so) and now sat down with a bowl of chilli and a pint!(':D')
Having to work all weekend so won't be able to finish it off til Monday.
Cheers
did you check the starter clutch allen bolts while you had the rotor removed?another problem is the aluminium part of the rotor becomes separated from the steel inner core + causes the exact problem that you have with bad vibration. you would have to remove the starter clutch from the rotor to visually inspect the back of the rotor. if there are any gaps between the aluminium+ the steel parts then the rotor is scrap
Z1Bman, yes!.. I've heard of that...Its really in the alternator rotor, there is a small dowel that can shear off there too! would cause a vibration.
Of course I remember riding along hearing a strange noise ..It was my chain wearing two grooves in my centre stand.
RegardZ.
Of course I remember riding along hearing a strange noise ..It was my chain wearing two grooves in my centre stand.
RegardZ.
Garn (Sydney) Z1, Z1A, Z1B and Z900-A4
Rotor was good but worth checking. It's all back together now.
I checked the carb float levels and had one high one ( same cylinder as I had the tight shim). Also when I put the exhaust back on I tightened the headers first before putting the silencer on. This resulted in the rear mount being about an inch too low. I've managed to rework the rear bracket so the exhaust isn't stressed when all tightened up.
Took it for a spin and
What an improvement! I still have a very slight buzz through the seat at 5000 rpm up to 6000. I haven't gone beyond this as I am on the second stage of running in. Theres no abnormal vibes before 5000 so a vast improvement and when it reaches 5000 its perfectly acceptable (all 4 cylinder vehicles will have a certain resonance in a given rev range I am lead to believe). The Z1 more so than the Z1000 due to the difference in the crank flywheels.
Now to what caused it. My feeling was that it still is the exhaust and not the play in the starter gear (as this freewheels once the motor has started) and perhaps with a little tweeking I may be able to improve it even more. I also think that all the other small adjustments have improved the running as well. I'm going to finish the running in and enjoy it for now.
Many thanks to everyone for your suggestions and comments. They kept me going through this dark period in Z ownership
I checked the carb float levels and had one high one ( same cylinder as I had the tight shim). Also when I put the exhaust back on I tightened the headers first before putting the silencer on. This resulted in the rear mount being about an inch too low. I've managed to rework the rear bracket so the exhaust isn't stressed when all tightened up.
Took it for a spin and
What an improvement! I still have a very slight buzz through the seat at 5000 rpm up to 6000. I haven't gone beyond this as I am on the second stage of running in. Theres no abnormal vibes before 5000 so a vast improvement and when it reaches 5000 its perfectly acceptable (all 4 cylinder vehicles will have a certain resonance in a given rev range I am lead to believe). The Z1 more so than the Z1000 due to the difference in the crank flywheels.
Now to what caused it. My feeling was that it still is the exhaust and not the play in the starter gear (as this freewheels once the motor has started) and perhaps with a little tweeking I may be able to improve it even more. I also think that all the other small adjustments have improved the running as well. I'm going to finish the running in and enjoy it for now.
Many thanks to everyone for your suggestions and comments. They kept me going through this dark period in Z ownership
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